274 PERU. 
The alcalde discovering that one of the party (Mr. Agate) was an 
artist, became extremely anxious that he should make a sketch of 
his father-in-law, an old revolutionary soldier who resided there. 
As the son-in-law had been so attentive, and offered them so many 
civilities, among others the loan of a silver dish, spoon, and fork, 
he could not do less than gratify these wishes. For this purpose 
the old man dressed himself in his uniform. The task of sittino- 
was greatly too much for him, and he was nearly overcome with the 
excitement and exertion. The old man was greatly delighted with 
the picture, as were all those about him, except the son-in-law, who 
expressed great dissatisfaction that it should be without legs, — it 
being only a half length, — and offered a large price to have them 
put on, but time did not admit of it. The sketch was presented to 
him, which has placed it out of my power to give a cut of it. 
Mr. Agate's first effort was deemed so successful that his reputation 
was at once established at Banos, and shortly afterwards he was 
called upon by the sacristan to engage him to paint the four Evange- 
lists for the church. Price was no object, provided he could do it, 
and they would besides consider it as a great favour. 
Some of the bystanders proposed to have the constable painted, 
and pointed to a strapping big negro. 
The houses literally contained no furniture, and the silver lent to 
our party was believed to be the only valuables in the place. The 
only articles besides that were seen, were some roughly made wooden 
spoons, earthen dishes, and water-jugs, a few boards made into a 
rough table, with a stool or two, and a bedstead made of canes and 
plastered with clay. In no part of the United States, whether in 
the cabins of the Far West, or in the vilest dens of our eastern cities, 
are persons to be seen living in such a miserable manner. The 
country people of Peru, notwithstanding they are surrounded with 
every thing to make them comfortable, want the knowledge and 
industry to make use of them. 
On the 23d they left Banos on their return. Notwithstanding 
their horses had had some rest, their backs were in a shocking stated 
but the sores did not seem to be regarded much by the guides, who 
applied soap to them ; they scolded and blamed the English saddles, 
which they called " Gallapagos turtles." 
The party had determined to make another visit to Alpamarca, but 
the guides would not listen to it, giving as a reason that they should 
have their horses stolen if they did. While this discussion was 
