PERU. 283 
They descended rapidly down the western declivity ; the scenery 
was beautiful, and they had plenty of employment in collecting. 
Two large parties were met, as they descended, the one of loaded 
mules, the other of several genteel travellers, among whom were 
females, accompanied by several servants well armed. In the after- 
noon they reached a solitary hut, at a place called Chicrine, situated 
at the foot of La Vinda, and kept by an old woman with one eye ; 
she proved very much the reverse of their hostess at Casa Cancha, 
being very cleanly ; here they passed the night comfortably. 
A Frenchman, who was now passing for a native, and was on his 
way to Pasco, with his servant, joined them at Chicrine. Being 
invited to partake of supper, he accepted, and did ample justice to 
it, but when he had finished, contrary to the usual politeness of 
his countrymen, he told them he had never eaten a worse meal in 
his life. 
After this remark, a belief was entertained that his saddle-bags 
contained something, and he was accordingly plied with questions 
until he confessed he had a loaf of bread ; this proved quite a treat 
and triumph over their fellow-lodger, who promised them a farther 
treat in the morning upon some fine chocolate. 
On the morning of the 25th, the Frenchman departed early, and 
forgot all about his fine chocolate, they regretted to hear, shortly after 
their arrival at Lima, that he had been robbed and murdered on his 
return. 
Our party set out early, and after an hour's ride reached Culnai, 
where the villagers were busy gathering in their potatoes. There 
were also several patches of Oxalis cunata, Tropeoleum tuberosum, 
and a species of Basella. The two former when cooked were well 
tasted, and all of them are much esteemed by the natives. These 
patches are enclosed by low stone dikes ; the plants as they advance 
are earthed up, as we do potatoes, in the early part of the season ; 
irrigation is necessary, as the soil is light and open, and consists 
chiefly of decayed rock and vegetable mould. Here some very 
interesting seeds and roots of a species of Alstrcemeria were gathered. 
Culnai and Banos are about on the same level, ten thousand feet 
above the sea, and are the highest points of cultivation ; they are both 
distant from the crest by the route of the water-course about nine miles. 
Dr. Pickering having preceded the party on foot, reached Culnai 
after nine o'clock, when he entered a store and was received with, the 
utmost cordiality ; a meal was at once prepared for him, consisting of 
