PAUMOTU GROUP. 339 
In the morning we bore away for Raraka, and shortly afterwards 
made it. As we approached it another island was discovered, to the 
northward and westward, which was not laid down on any charts. 
On Raraka we soon discovered a party of natives, near the 
entrance to the lagoon, waving a Tahitian flag, three horizontal 
stripes, red, white, and red. They were partly dressed, some in 
shirts, without hats, others with vests, and others again with trousers 
of all colours. I joined the schooner, stood in for the mouth of the 
lagoon, and landed. 
Nothing could be more striking than the difference that prevailed 
between these natives and those of the Disappointment Islands, which 
we had just left, The half-civilization of these natives was very 
marked, and it appeared as though we had issued out of darkness 
into light. They showed a modest disposition, and gave us a hearty 
welcome. We were not long at a loss to know to what to ascribe it : 
the missionary had been at work here, and his exertions had been 
based upon a firm foundation; the savage had been changed to a 
reasonable creature. Among the inhabitants was a native missionary, 
who had been instrumental in this work. If the missionaries had 
effected nothing else, they would deserve the thanks of all those who 
roam over this wide expanse of ocean, and incur its many unknown 
and hidden dangers. Here all shipwrecked mariners would be sure 
of kind treatment, and a share of the few comforts these people 
possess. No savage mistrust and fear were seen here. The women 
and children came about us, receiving our trifles. They showed 
much joy and curiosity at the sight of us, and were eager to supply 
our wants. The chief was an old man, much tattooed about the 
breast and arms, which gave him the appearance of a blue and 
brown checker-board ; others had large rosettes on their legs, and 
horizontal bands on the back, passing a considerable distance on each 
side of the spine, elaborately executed in various patterns. 
This is believed to be the tattooing w^ i 
peculiar to the inhabitants of Anaa 
or Chain Island. They frequent the 
different islands of the group, and 
are generally employed by those who ^5$%/^^ ^ ' 
are engaged in the shell fishery. ^^^T™™,. 
I was particularly struck with the modest and quiet behaviour 
of the native missionary, who was a Tahitian. He kept himself 
aloof, whilst all the others were crowding round to partake in the 
