PAUMOTU GROUP. 
341 
been sometimes able to accomplish in them. They find no difficulty 
in navigating them, and are now learning the use of the compass, 
but I am informed they still prefer sailing by the stars and sun, and 
seldom make any great error. Navigating as they do from island to 
island, they have not unfrequently been overtaken by storms, and 
some have been lost, while others have taken refuge or been wrecked 
upon other islands, and have been absent from their own several 
years. These gales they say come from the northwest. They live 
here in small huts, which are rather an improvement upon those of 
the islanders we have already seen ; they are formed of poles, with 
a mat covering, and are carried Math them on their voyages. 
Though scarcely able to protect them from the weather, yet these 
huts are clean, and lined with mats. Their persons seemed cleanly 
also, and they showed a great disposition to oblige us. Some 
attention was paid to cultivation, as was evinced in the plantation 
and care of their cocoa-nut groves, as if wishing to provide for their 
future wants. The trees of the young plantations were all carefully 
staked around. Their food consists of dried fish, somewhat similar 
to a whiting, of which they had a good and plentiful supply, and also 
of the masi, a preparation of the bread-fruit, which they were keep- 
ing for their return voyage. 
This was the first island on which we observed the dawning of 
Christianity and civilization. The native missionaries, although 
they are yet ignorant of most of the duties enjoined upon a Christian, 
still do much good in preparing the way. Many learn to read, and 
some even to write, under their tuition; yet they have many 
impediments thrown in the way of their efforts by the introduction 
of spirits by the whites. The old chief, and others, are much 
addicted to the use of it, and the vessels resorting here for the 
pearl fishery generally employ native divers, and pay them for the 
most part in rum or whiskey. We found here an Englishman who 
had belonged to a schooner engaged in the pearl fishery. He told 
me he had been left sick there by his vessel, and had been kindly 
treated during his stay of three months on the island. I was in 
hopes of obtaining some information from him, but he knew little 
or nothing of the language, and, moreover, was a stupid fellow. I 
gave him a passage to Tahiti, whither he was desirous of going, in 
the tender. 
Having some business on board, I invited the chief to go off with 
me : he first inquired if all the boats and men were to stay ; on my 
vol. i. 86 
