Photograph by Paul Thompson 

 GREEK CATHOLIC PRIESTS, FRENCH AND SERVIAN OFFICERS, AND MACEDONIAN 

 CITIZENS IN COSMOPOLITAN SALONIKI 



and as you watch the khaki soldiers kick 

 up its dust today, there is little to remind 

 you of the Janissaries of yesterday, the 

 cohorts of Belisarius, the Roman legions, 

 the phalanxes of Alexander, or Xerxes 

 and his Immortals. Still, you may play 

 fancifully enough with the centuries, as 

 American electric cars, driven by a mod- 

 ern Greek, a Spanish Jew, or haply some 

 stranded Turk, clang back and forth 

 under the Roman arch that spans the 

 Street of the Vardar near its eastern end. 



The bas-reliefs about the bases of this 

 arch are so blurred that archjeologists 

 long disagreed as to its precise date. But 

 a train of camels distinguishable among 

 them and the name of the river Tigris 

 have sufficed to identify the monument 

 as a triumphal arch of Galerius. In A. D. 

 296 Diocletian ordered him from the 

 Danube to the Tigris to meet the invad- 

 ing Persians (see page 214). 



Galerius was beaten and only saved his 

 own life by swimming the Euphrates. 

 But the next year he returned to Meso- 

 potamia and wiped out his disgrace by 



destroying the army of the Persian king. 

 The walls of Saloniki were long a more 

 visible memento of her past. During the 

 last generation, however, they have grad- 

 ually been disappearing. The sea wall 

 was naturally the first to go, followed by 

 the lower part of the land wall on both 

 sides. Sultan Abd-ul-Hamid II caused a 

 modern boulevard to be laid out on the 

 site of the old fortifications to the east, 

 where the city has overflowed into the 

 suburb of Kalamaria, little suspecting 

 that he would ever live to see his handi- 

 work or hear it renamed after that 

 strange beast, the Constitution. 



THE WHITE TOWER 



He was wise enough to spare the great 

 round tower at the angle of the two walls, 

 which is the chief ornament of the water 

 front. The White Tower, surrounded 

 by a smaller crenellated wall of its own 

 and four bartizan turrets, is compara- 

 tively modern, being the work of Sulei- 

 man the Magnificent (see page 219). 



But the greater part of these old de- 



