Photograph by Paul Thompson 



A SALONIKI CROWD GATHER TO SEE THE FRENCH MINISTER AT ATHENS LEAVE A 



CONFERENCE 



The English hotel, the American street-car, and the French automobile proclaim the influence 

 of the Modern West in the New East 



fenses date from the fourth century of 

 our era, when Theodosius the Great took 

 pains that Saloniki should not suffer the 

 fate of Adrianople at the hands of the 

 Goths. The walls of Saloniki are thus 

 older than the more famous walls of 

 Constantinople, which were built by the 

 grandson of Theodosius. 



A year or two before their final de- 

 parture from Saloniki the Turks set 

 about destroying the remaining fortifica- 

 tions on the heights behind the town. 

 The acropolis of the Macedonian city was 

 here, and several fragments of the origi- 

 nal Greek masonry remain. In Byzan- 

 tine times the citadel was called the pen- 

 tepyrgion, the five towers, from an inner 

 circle of walls and towers that defend it. 

 They contain many interesting mono- 

 grams and inscriptions. 



Saloniki possesses numerous other 

 relics of archaeological interest. The vis- 

 itor is continually discovering: fragments 



of antiquity — a pre-Christian tomb 

 turned into a fountain, the stylobate of a 

 statue carrying a street lamp, an intricate 

 Byzantine carving set into a wall, a bro- 

 ken sarcophagus. 



SALONIKI'S CHURCHES 



But the finest remains of the ancient 

 city are its churches. How they ever sur- 

 vived the tempests of the Middle Ages is 

 a miracle. Nevertheless they did, twenty- 

 two of them. And there they stand to- 

 day, turned back into churches after their 

 five hundred years of use as mosques, 

 illustrating the story of Byzantine eccle- 

 siastical architecture even more beauti- 

 fully, in certain ways, than those of Con- 

 stantinople. Moreover, they make up be- 

 tween them a museum of the lost Byzan- 

 tine art of mosaic, unrivaled save in Con- 

 stantinople and Ravenna. 



The oldest of these churches, and after 

 the arch of Galerius the most ancient 



