Photograph by Frederick Moore 

 GREEK WOMEN OF DRAMA, NEAR THE BULGARIAN BORDER 



"It is not surprising that a city so admirably placed, whether for defense or for communica- 

 tion . . . should long have been known to men" (see text, page 205) 



Pleasant, hearty-looking fellows the last 

 are, too ; fair-haired, many of them, and 

 blue-eyed. The language of these chil- 

 dren of Abraham is a corrupt Spanish. 

 The fathers of most of them were driven 

 out of Spain in the fifteenth century by 

 Ferdinand and Isabella. Long before 

 that, however, St. Paul mentioned a syn- 

 agogue in the city of the Thessalonians. 



PICTURESQUE COSTUMES PASS AND 

 SCHOOES ARE FIEFED 



I could not help regretting that the 

 younger generation should renounce its 

 picturesque heritage of costume. Yet I 

 was told that the change had entailed the 

 happiest results for Saloniki ; had made 

 a dirty medieval town cleaner and more 

 comfortable than any other in its neigh- 

 borhood ; had filled shops and banks and 

 schools. And it played in the greater 



domain of the Turkish revolution a part 

 that has yet to be recorded. 



Between the quay and the Street of 

 the Vardar lies the New Jerusalem of 

 this energetic population. The seaward 

 part of it is a Latin-looking and Greek- 

 speaking quarter for which Saloniki 

 cherishes considerable tenderness. I pre- 

 ferred, myself, such portions of it as 

 have not yet been Plaussmannized, or 

 Midhatized. For Midhat Pasha, father 

 of the Turkish Constitution, was many 

 years ago Governor General of Saloniki, 

 and he left his mark in streets of uncom- 

 mon straightness for the Levant. 



Between them alleys of sharp light and 

 shade meander under broad eaves, and 

 glimpses of pleasant courts and loggias 

 are to be caught through open doors. 

 There also congregate many at the re- 

 ceipt of custom, the more favored of 



225 



