34 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



proceeded in. this way for some distance, Sebatis examining 

 the broken twigs, and other signs, and judging of the dis- 

 tance they were ahead of us. At last, finding some very fresh 

 sign, he told me to put on my snowshoes, and take up my 

 position behind an old maple tree, and he would make a 

 detour and head off the caribou (caribou, like the hare, 

 when turned always take their back trail,) and strapping 

 on his own snowshoes he was off with a quick and noise- 

 less stride which soon carried his stalwart form out of 

 sight. And I was left to my own meditations in the very 

 heart of the wilderness, five and twenty miles from civili- 

 zation, the temperature obout ten below zero, and my only 

 chance of reaching any habitation depending upon the re- 

 appearance of Sebatis. There was little chance of my 

 following the trail back to camp, for a snowshoe trail will 

 be obliterated in a few minutes if the snow is light and 

 drifting. It will be seen from these remarks that every- 

 thing depends upon the good faith of the Indian guides. I 

 had implicit confidence in Sebatis and felt quite at ease. 

 There is a something truly awful in the stillness of a North 

 American forest in winter; after a time it becomes insup- 

 portable, and one will hail with delight the whispering of 

 the cold north wind among the pine trees, and will wel- 

 come with a shout the loud report of some monarch of the 

 forest split by the frost, or the loud boom of the ice crack- 

 ing on some neighboring lake. 



Half an hour having elapsed, 1 began to have some 

 doubts about Sebatis having succeeded in coming up with 

 the caribou, when the sharp crack of a rifle at no great 

 distance aroused me to instant action, and looking to my 

 rifle I prepared for a shot. I had not long to wait, tor the 

 crashing of the underwood announced the approach of 

 some heavy animal, and was soon followed by a large car- 

 ibou ploughing through the snow at a terrific pace, and 

 raising such clouds as at times to completely hide him 

 from view. In passing me some trees intervened, so I had 

 to make a rush for a shot, and was fortunate enough to 

 put a ball through his left shoulder, after receiving which 

 he made a few plunges, and pitched heavily forward into 

 the snow, never to rise again; the ball had passed com- 

 pletely through his body, and he was quite dead when I 

 came "up to him. It is very dangerous to approach a car- 

 ibou when wounded, as he possesses a vast amount of pluck, 

 and will make a most desperate defense— not with his 

 horns, but with his legs— striking out in all directions, and 

 one blow from his sharp hoof will knock the life out of 

 anything rash enough to approach him; the boldest hound 

 will keep at a respectful distance. Sebatis had been un- 

 fortunate; the caribou had taken the alarm in spite of ail 

 his precautions, and led him a merry dance before he 

 could manage to head them. In his hurry he had fallen, 

 and some snow getting about the lock of his rifle had 

 made it hang fire, so he lost his shot. He reported the 

 herd to consist of five caribou, including the one I had 

 shot (no doubt the same herd we saw on the lake the day 

 before). One of them was the largest caribou he had ever 

 seen, with broad, spreading antlers— something unusual, 

 as they generally shed their horns in November 



As we. had enough to do to get our caribou to camp out of 

 the way of the wolves, we decided to postpone the pursuit 

 of the rest of the herd for the present. We now had a 

 keen relish for our sandwich and brandy and water, fol- 

 lowed by the invariable pipe, and then to work. Sebatis 

 soon procured from a species of swamp ash a most service- 

 able-looking rope, about eight feet in length; he made one 

 end fast to ihehead of the <mribou, and passing half of it 

 over his shoulder gave me the other half to pass over 

 mine and off we tramped. On our way we flushed some 

 ruffed grouse, and Sebatis redeemed his reputation as a 

 sportsman by bagging three, c tting off the heads of the 

 first and third. After much tugging and floundering in 

 the snow we arrived in camp with our game. Nimrod and 

 his part}' had not returned, and did not make their ap- 

 pearance until an hour after dark. They had found car- 

 ibou trails, but had not been lucky in finding game. They 

 had also found a moose yard too late in the day to start 

 them with any chance of success. They had bagged 

 seven ruffed grouse and three hares. Sebatis soon had a de- 

 liciously tender caribou steak ready for our dinner, and all 

 being pretty well fagged out, we lay to enjoying our pipes 

 and chatting until, one by one, we dropped oif to sleep. 



Later in the night 1 was aroused by tiie growling ot the 

 hounds, and listening I heard the howling of wolves — at 

 any time most dismal music, but particularly so in the 

 stillness of the night. It begins by one wolf barking, then 

 another lakes it up, prolonging it into a howl, the rest of 

 the pack join in, and a chorus is completed which, if once 

 heard, can never be lorgotten or mistaken. They had evi- 

 dently scented and tracked our caribou to camp. As they 

 appeared to be in huge numbers I aroused the sleepers, 

 and shouldering arms we each took a brand from the fire 

 and sallied forth to meet the enemy, the dogs showing no 

 inclination to join us. We found tiiem drawn up in battle 

 array on theeage of the lake, as we judged by their howls, 

 but could not see them with sufficient distinctness for our 

 rifles to take effect. We gave them a volley, which dis- 

 persed them, and returned to resume our disturbed slum- 

 bers. There seemed to be a combination of circumstances 

 that night to prevent my getting any rest. 1 could not 

 have been asleep for any length ot time, when I was again 

 awoke, and could not make out for some time by wnat. 

 At last high over cur heads I heard a frightful peal of 

 fiendish laughter, which had scarcely ceased when it was 

 taken up by another fiend apparently close at hand. De- 

 termined not to be balked thi» time I slipped into my snow- 

 shoes, and rifle in hand stepped silently out into the night. 

 Presently tiie hideous sound was repeated, and looking up 

 into a tall fir tree which towered above our camp, a pair of 

 glowing orbs met my horrified gaze. Crack went my rifle 

 and down came a monstrous specimen of the great-horned 

 owl. I just called out in time to prevent myself being 

 made moose-meat of by four glistening barrels, all pointing 

 in the direction in which I stood. We now determined to 

 try tiie mtrits of hot whisky punch. It had the desired 

 effect and we were disturbed no more that night. Shortly 

 after daylight the dreams having been discussed and break- 

 fast over, we agreed upon the order of the day. Old Joe 

 was of opinion that we should all go together and hunt the 

 caribou started by Sebatis the day before; so giving him 

 the benefit of the proverb "consilium senum est samim," we 

 started all together, struck the trail, and slipping the 

 hounds they soon were in full cry; but as they led directly 

 iroui us it promised to be a hard hunt. Nimrod, Sebatis 

 and I kept together. Joe and Lola struck off with the 

 hope of heading the game and getting a shot. Mile after 

 mile we tramped perseveringly on, until at last the cry of 

 £he hounds was lost. Directly we heard it again, evident- 



ly coming toward us this time. Sebatis started off at a 

 trot; Nimrod and I followed suit. We made for a brook 

 on Lake Victoria, which we thought the caribou would 

 cross, and were not disappointed, for presently we saw him 

 coming down the side of a hardwood "hill, and Nimrod 

 made a capital shot, bowling him over at 200 yards. The 

 hounds were close up, but desperately fagged, as they 

 must have run at least fifteen miles at a killing pace; so 

 we had no trouble in beating them off the game. Sebatis 

 came up almost at the same time, and kneeling beside the 

 caribou drew his knife to put the finishing touch to the 

 scene; the tired hounds grouped themselves in most pic- 

 turesque attitudes, and with the figures, game, etc. , formed 

 a picture which Landseer would delight to paint. The hounds 

 were soon rewarded by a plentiful feed . Old Joe and Lola 

 joining us we arrived in camp with our second caribou — 

 a fine specimen weighing over 300 pounds, with a noble 

 pair of antlers. Soon all were asleep but myself and Old 

 Joe, whose turn it was to watch and tend the fire. There 

 sat the old Indian sentinel with his hand supporting his 

 head, puffing away at his pipe, and evincing his satisfac- 

 tion by the peculiar Indian "Ugh!" the fire lighting up his 

 face and bringing it out in bold relief from the dark fir 

 trees, the swarthy forms of the Indians, and my friend 

 Nimrod slumbering quietly on the buffalo robes, the tired 

 hounds grouped together, some huddling over the fire, the 

 camp hung with moccasins and Indian garments of every 

 hue, and the full moon adding her silvery light to a most 

 weird scene. 



The next day Nimrod was on the lame list and remained 

 in camp; Old Joe also remained to make additional toban- 

 gans to get the meat out. 1 had had enough hunting for 

 the time, and as I never encouraged the wanton destruc- 

 tion of game, I remained in camp also. Sebatis and Lola 

 went off on a moose hunt. In tiie morning I attended our 

 holes in the lake and pulled up trout. In the afternoon 

 Nimrod had waged war against the ruffed grouse and 

 hares, and brought to camp a goodly bag. Sebatis and 

 Lola returned late at night, bringing with them a two-year 

 old moose killed by Sebatis. The following day we packed 

 our tobangans with caribou, moose, grouse, hares and 

 trout, and pointed our snow-shoes homeward. 



Passamaquoddy. 



For Forest and Stream. 

 ACROSS LOTS FROM THE ST. JOHNS 

 RIVER TO SALT WATER. 



k : — ■ — 



DURING the recent heated term the clerk of the 

 weather favored us with a higher range of the ther- 

 mometer than ever before known in Florida. One day 

 the mercury rose to 100 degrees in the shade, and I deemed 

 it advisable to pull up stakes and steer to the south and 

 east, hoping thereby to discover a cooler portion of old 

 Mother Earth than that upon which the City of Jackson- 

 ville is situated. On the evening of the 18th of July I left 

 this city on the steamer Euphemia of the Crescent City 

 Line, and at daylight found myself at the dock at Palatka. 

 At 7 a. m., after such a toilet as was warranted by blue 

 shirts and twenty-cent chip hats, I visited the sanctum of 

 Col. Crocodiius lucius Pratt, of the Palatka Herald, for the 

 purpose of administering religious consolation to that dis- 

 consolate representative of the staff editorial. 1 was as- 

 sured by some of his personal friends that he was suffering 

 from ennui, the sequence of the rapid disappearance of 

 his saurian pets of the St. Johns River; the results of the 

 annual fusil ade of hosts of pot hunters who yearly ascend 

 the river, and who, by carelessness, emperil the lives and 

 limbs of tourists. Unfortunately for our good intentions 

 Bro. Pratt was absent prospecting for some fat and juicy 

 Florida beef for the matutinal meal, and our laudable in- 

 tentions ended in smoke, and we were forced to leave 

 without rendering the assistance so much needed. For 



"The eye that will not weep another's sorrow 

 Should boast no gentler brightness than the glare 

 That reddens in the eyeball of the wolf." 



At 8 a. m. we left for Deep River, the outlet of Crescent 

 (formerly Dunn's) Lake, distant nine miles. The question 

 arises, what shall I write about the glories of the St. Johns 

 River without repeating the threadbare description that has 

 graced the pages of nearly every paper and periodical in 

 the country? My pen is not adequate to the task of con- 

 tributing anything new or interesting, so I shall merely 

 refer to its evergreen banks, semi-tropical scenery, and the 

 numerous beautiful and attractive inglesides that adorn its 

 banks; and assign the "gator" portion to the saurian pro- 

 clivities of the veracious editor of the Palatka Herald . 



Deep River is about nine miles in length, and in its gen- 

 eral characteristics it resembles the far-famed Ochlawaha; 

 but is wider and capable of floating any vessel that can 

 cross the St. Johns bar. The morning was calm and plea- 

 sant, and tbe bass were breaking near each shore. During 

 our trip through the river we counted twenty-one 'gators, 

 many of them of large size. One ancient fellow was 

 quietly paddling across the stream, and paid no attention 

 to the steamer. The boat approached, and he kept on his 

 course until the stern was within three feet of his body, 

 when he made a desperate effort and escaped without a 

 collision, and I reverently bared my head in thankfulness 

 to the scaly monster, for if he had collided with the steamer 

 it is probable that the next issue of the Palatka Herald 

 would have contained a hai rowing description of a colli- 

 sion on Deep River, the sinking of the Euphemia, and the 

 narrow escape of the passengers and crew. Here I am 

 writing in my humble cottage, and when I think of the 

 dangers I escaped on that occasion 1 return thanks to that 

 'gator for his agility and forbearance, and exclaim with 

 Rovve:— 



'•Bat though my mouth is damb, my heart shall thank you, 

 Ami when it melts before the throne of mercy 

 My fervent soul shall breathe one prayer for you, 

 That Heaven will pay you bacK, wnen most you need, 

 Tue grace and gooduess you have shown to me." 



At Sand Point, on the River, a large 'gator for weeks 

 saluted the boat on each trip with hisses, bellowing and 

 snapping of jaws; and it was evident from her actions that 

 her nest was near. Yesterday I was informed that some- 

 one had destroyed her. When the process of incubation 

 is ended the interesting infantile 'gators will be compelled 

 to look after No. 1, and vainly seek for the maternal care 

 of one who has gone to the happy hunting grounds, as a 

 consequence of the indigestibiliiy of a dose of blue whist- 

 lers. Those graceful and interesting beauties are rapidly 

 diminishing, and it is proposed to organize a society for 

 the prevention of cruelty to 'gators, and to employ a com- 

 petent person to hatch them artificially, and restock the 

 St. Johns River. 



As we approached the lake we again enjoyed a view of 

 this beautiful sheet of water— a lake that is not surpassed 

 if equalled, by any body of water in the State. It is cre^ 

 centic in outline, hence its new and appropriate name of 

 Crescent Lake. It is about twenty miles in length, and 

 from three to five in width; average depth from twelve to 

 fourteen feet. The water is pure and the tide rises about 

 one foot. In years gone by a reverend friend described 

 the attractive features of the lake, and insisted upon my 

 visiting; but I fancied he was stretching his blanket and 

 that it resembled the majority of the lakes in the State— - 

 shal-law aud to a certain extent blocked up with floating 

 lettuce, lillypads and saw grass. We have visited most of 

 the lakes of Florida, and we unhesitatingly pronounce this 

 one to be unequalled for aquatic sports; and we are con- 

 vinced that the day is not tar distant when it will attract the 

 attention of those who delight in sailing and rowing. 



The lake is well stocked with basi, and the disciple of 

 old Isaak can enjoy the music of his reel, and admire the 

 line of beauty as depicted by his pliant split bamboo, la 

 addition, th« lake contains bream, and at certain seasons 

 quantities of large-sized channel bass, and a fish locally 

 known as shell crackers. As described to me, they weigh 

 from one to two pouuds, are good biters, and are full of 

 fight They are represented as possessing an osseous car- 

 tilaginous structure in the mouth or throat by which thev 

 crush fresh water mollusks. I have made arrangements to 

 have some specimens forwarded to me for examination 

 and you may hear more about the "shell crackers." Dead 

 Lake is a bay or lagoon about two miles in length, com- 

 municating with the main laKe at its northeasterly side. 

 It is to a great extent filled with lillypads, and during the 

 winter months is a great resort for ducks. Haw Creek 

 empties into the easterly end of the lake, and by the re- 

 moval of a few logs it can be rendered navigable for steam- 

 ers to Horse Landing, a distance of eight miles from its 

 mouth, and fourteen miles in a direct line from the Atlantic. 

 We ascended this stream for several miles and found it to 

 correspond to a great extent to the Ochlawaha. The scenery 

 along its banks was almost tropical in character, and the 

 various species of Tillandsia flourished in all their parasitic 

 loveliness. In navigating this stream we were forced to 

 the conclusion that the quietness and solitude would have 

 satisfied the cravings of the poet when he sighed 



" for a cot in some vast wilderness 



With a boundless continuity of shade." 



On the west side of the lake and Deep River is a body 

 of high land bounded to the west by the St. Johns River 

 and Lake George, and known as Fruitland Peninsula. 

 This section is rapidly filling up with northern and western 

 people who are engaging in fruit culture, or erecting them- 

 selves beautiful homes where they can escape the withering 

 blasts of old Boreas in winter, and enjoy the balmy and 

 invigorating breezes that daily fan and cool this favored 

 section during the summer months. This peninsula is 

 favored in many respects, for the land is high, beautiful 

 lakes exist in every direction, the health is unexceptionable, 

 and the summers are comparatively cool. Northern people 

 form an incorrect opinion of Florida regarding the range 

 of the thermometer. They argue that because "it is away 

 down South," that it must be hot and sweltering. The 

 thermometer never rises as high as it does in the Northern 

 States, and close, sultry and oppressive days are unknown. 

 During the day a refreshing wind fans the brow of the 

 working man, and at night his exhausted body is refreshed 

 by a cool and invigorating breeze that restores his exhausted 

 energies and prepares him for his daily toil. On the con- 

 trary, in the North, a man rolls and turns on his couch 

 with perspiration teeming from every pore. Owing to our 

 cool summer nights, and non-oppressive atmosphere during 

 the day disease of a severe character occurs but seldom, 

 and sunstrokes are unknown. Many run away with the 

 idea that Florida is unhealthy during'the summer months, 

 but this is a mistake. I will admit that in certain locali- 

 ties malarial fevers exist during the summer and autumnal 

 months, but these diseases when they do arise are mild in 

 character and readily yield to treatment. From actual ex- 

 perience and observation we unhesitatingly assert that 

 there are localities in the neighborhood of New York 

 where persons would be more likely to contract febrile 

 disease than in any section of Florida. As an evidence of 

 the general healthfulness of the State I need but refer to 

 the reports ot the Surgeon General of the United States 

 Army. Our population in Jacksonville is estimated at 

 12,000, and during the last month (July), the hottest ever 

 known in the State, we had but eleven deaths, and of the 

 entire number not one from any febrile disease. My es- 

 teemed friend, Dr. Wall, of Tampa, writing on the 15th 

 of July, states that "thus far during the year 1876 a case 

 of febrile disease has not been observed in Tampa or in the 

 adjoining country." I feel assured that the State of Flo- 

 rida, taken as a whole, is more healthy than any State 

 north of it — in other words, that the mortality per 1,000 

 is less. 



I must apologize for this digression, and take up my sub- 

 ject of Across Lots. "Two years since a gentleman named 

 Griffin, during his explorations, found himself on the bank 

 of Crescent Lake, and was so enamoured by the natural 

 beauties and advantages of the locality that he was induced 

 to purchase 1,100 acres of land, and resolved upon found- 

 ing a city, and 1 feel assured that his most sanguine antici- 

 pations will be realized. He became associated with two 

 enterprising and intelligent gentlemen, and the trio consti- 

 tute the firm of Griffin & Co. The city site has been laid 

 out in blocks bounded by streets and avenues seventy-five 

 feet wide. Each block is subdivided into four lots of 150 

 by 250 feet. To the rest of the town plot the land has 

 been laid out in five-acre lots for residential purposes or 

 for orange groves. Leaving Lake Crescent, aud passing to 

 the westward along one of the avenues, there is a gradual 

 rise for about twelve hundied feet until an altitude of 

 seventy -five feet is attained; then a level plateau of about 

 one thousand feet wide, followed by a descent of about 

 thirty-five feet in a distance of eight hundred feet to Lake 

 Lena. This lake is about one mile and a half long, and 

 the water is very deep and pure. The peculiarity of Lake 

 Lena is its elevation above Lake Crescent. This is an ad- 

 mirable sheet of water for boating purposes. It is filled 

 with bass of a large size, and those who are piscatorially 

 inclined can enjoy the excitement of capturing fish at all 

 times. 



On my arrival at Crescent City, I seated myself on the 

 verandah of one of the residences, and enjoyed the breeze 

 that was cooled by its passage over the lake, and I wished 

 that absent friends who were sweltering in the Northern 

 States, could have been seated by my side to inhale the re- 

 freshing wind as it ascended the gentle slope from the lake, 



