HISTORIC ISLANDS AXD SHORES OF THE AEGEAN SEA 255 



water to the underground aqueduct in 

 ancient times. I stopped for the night in 

 a Greek cloister in that same valley, the 

 priests doing everything in their power to 

 entertain me. 



With fish fresh from the sea, with figs 

 just pulled from the trees, with melons, 

 grapes, and nuts which had ripened and 

 found their flavor beneath a Samian sun, 

 we had a festive board which might rival 

 the splendid feast given by Edmond 

 Dantes in the fabled grotto on the isle 

 of Monte Christo. 



Toward sunset one evening I ascended 

 to the top of the mountain above the 

 cloister in order to obtain a beautiful 

 view of the sea. There before me in the 

 gloaming stood Mt. Mycale, dim and 

 hoary, while the winding Meander flowed 

 into the sea at its feet. The blue sea 

 stretched away until it met the azure sky 

 where Patmos stood, at an uncertain dis- 

 tance on the horizon, and the receding 

 coast of Asia Minor extended away to 

 the south until it became lost to view in 

 the direction of ancient Halicarnassus. 

 Immediately below, only a few miles 

 distant from each other, are the scenes 

 where two of the greatest naval engage- 

 ments in ancient history were fought, 

 namely, Lade and Mycale. 



I have visited many times the scenes 

 within reach of my field-glass from this 

 point, and each time some new and last- 

 ing impression associated with the his- 

 tory of the past was left indelibly upon 

 my memory. 



With the aid of a powerful glass the 

 plains of Miletus and Ephesus are 

 brought into view, although the ancient 

 cities lie several miles inland. In this 

 connection I am reminded of the his- 

 torian Freeman, who has said : 



"The sum and substance of history's 

 tale can be heard in its fulness only on 

 the spot which is its home. One must 

 put rein on ten thousand memories, on 

 ten thousand points of deathless history, 

 every one of which become ten thousand 

 times more living as we see them written 

 forever on the everlasting page of the 

 soil, the hills, and the sea." 



Samos, like Chios, is the home of wind- 

 mills. They are scattered everywhere 

 along the roadside in the interior of the 



island, and they certainly are an asset as 

 far as picturesqueness and interest are 

 concerned. The two greatest industries 

 of the island are the manufacture of 

 cigarettes and the making of wine. Both 

 are shipped to every part of the world. 



CIGARETTES FOR KOREA 



While standing on the quay at Vathy 

 I saw cases of cigarettes destined for 

 Korea. The wine is largely shipped to 

 Europe, where it is used chiefly for mix- 

 ing purposes. In the summer time the 

 harbors of the little island also offer good 

 sport in yachting and fishing. The 

 "chipouri" and "laveraki" of these wa- 

 ters have been famous ever since one of 

 them swallowed the ring of Polycrates. 

 Sea bathing at Samos from June to Sep- 

 tember is simply perfect. The yachting 

 is excellent, but the treacherous winds 

 which suddenly arise after a dead calm 

 admonish one to exercise care. The 

 pilot of the Violet was knocked into the 

 sea by the boom once on account of the 

 unexpected shifting of the wind. He 

 managed to grasp the dingey which was 

 being towed astern, and even this frail 

 craft capsized before we managed to get 

 the half-drowned man aboard. 



The history of Samos since 1912 has 

 been eventful. In April of that year, 

 while the Tripolitan war was still in prog- 

 ress, two Italian ships of war entered the 

 harbor of Vathy and torpedoed the small 

 Turkish "stationaire" which had been 

 kept there at the disposal of the prince. 

 During the Balkan war the little garri- 

 son of a few hundred Turks was com- 

 pelled by insurgents, Samians and Cre- 

 tans, to retire to Smyrna. At the close of 

 the war the Samians issued a manifesto 

 declaring their union with Greece. 



THE ISEAND OE RHODES 



"I have seen each distinct and separate place 



Where stood the Seven Wonders of the 

 world ; 

 Their faded glories I have sought to trace 



Where once their pagan banners were un- 

 furled. 

 All ! all are gone, and nothing now is left 



Save outward tokens of a deep decline; 

 These ancient shrines have sadly been bereft 



And scattered to the winds of every clime." 



The history of the island of Rhodes 

 may be divided into three periods, namely, 



