THIS IS NOT A TRUNCATED CONE 



The photograph was taken for the sake of the details, and the top of the cone and of 

 the cliff lie outside the field of the camera. On the left it is easy to see that the great cone 

 is the real habitation. We notice here the first example of an actual stairway; it is modern. 

 On the right the rock has rotted away, leaving a great chamber exposed. Inside this chamber 

 an enterprising modern Troglodyte has built the fagade of his house, which, as one can easily 

 see, fills only about one-half of the original chamber in which the Troglodyte of antiquity 

 lived. Note cart wheels on right (see pages 322, 323). 



a dozen dishes at least — lamb, kid, pork, 

 veal, fowls, with various sorts of bread, 

 some of wheat and some of barley. 



DRINKING A GUEST'S HEALTH EROM THE 

 COMMON BOWL 



"When, as an act of courtesy, any one 

 wished to drink his neighbor's health, he 

 would drag- him to the big bowl, and when 

 there he must duck his head and take a 

 long pull, drinking like an ox. The head- 

 man, they insisted everywhere, must ac- 

 cept as a present whatever he liked to 

 have. But he would accept nothing, ex- 

 cept where he espied any of his relations, 

 when he made a point of taking them 

 off, him or her, with himself. 



"When they reached Cheirisophus 

 there was a similar scene. There, too, 

 the men were feasting in their quarters, 

 garlanded with wisps of hay and dry 

 grass, and Armenian boys were playing 



the part of waiters in barbaric costumes, 

 only the feasters had to indicate by ges- 

 ture to the boys what they were to do, as 

 if they were deaf and dumb. 



"After the first formalities, when 

 Cheirisophus and Xenophon had greeted 

 one another like bosom friends, they in- 

 terrogated the headman in common by 

 means of the Persian-speaking inter- 

 preter. 



" 'What was the country ?' they asked. 

 He replied, 'Armenia.' And again, 'For 

 whom are the horses being bred ?' 'They 

 are tribute for the king,' he replied. 'And 

 the neighboring country?' 'Is the land of 

 the Chalybes,' he said, and he described 

 the road which led to it. 



"So for the present Xenophon went off, 

 taking the headman back with him to his 

 household and friends. 



"The horses in this country are smaller 

 than the Persian horses, but are more 



311 



