﻿198 
  

  

  THE 
  NATIONAL 
  GEOGRAPHIC 
  MAGAZINE 
  

  

  worms 
  and 
  insects 
  on 
  the 
  tender 
  leaves 
  

   of 
  the 
  plants. 
  

  

  Corn 
  and 
  beans 
  are 
  the 
  staple 
  articles 
  

   of 
  diet 
  among 
  the 
  poorer 
  classes. 
  Corn 
  

   cakes 
  (tortillas), 
  sturdy 
  cousins 
  of 
  our 
  

   hot 
  cakes, 
  form 
  the 
  plate 
  on 
  which 
  the 
  

   frijoles 
  are 
  heaped. 
  

  

  Coffee 
  is 
  prepared 
  in 
  the 
  form 
  of 
  a 
  

   strong 
  extract, 
  a 
  teaspoonful 
  or 
  two 
  being 
  

   added 
  to 
  a 
  cup 
  of 
  hot 
  milk. 
  Among 
  

   tropical 
  fruits, 
  I 
  here 
  first 
  became 
  ac- 
  

   quainted 
  with 
  the 
  delicious 
  nispero, 
  the 
  

   fruit 
  of 
  the 
  tree 
  Achras 
  sapota 
  which 
  sup- 
  

   plies 
  the 
  sap 
  known 
  commercially 
  as 
  chicle, 
  

   the 
  basis 
  of 
  chewing-gum 
  (see 
  page 
  in). 
  

  

  by 
  his 
  ox-cart 
  you 
  know 
  a 
  salva- 
  

   dorian's 
  home: 
  

  

  A 
  picturesque 
  touch 
  on 
  the 
  highways 
  

   of 
  Salvador 
  is 
  the 
  archaic 
  ox-cart. 
  Like 
  

   the 
  head-dress 
  of 
  the 
  Andean 
  High- 
  

   lander, 
  the 
  Salvadorian 
  ox-cart 
  changes 
  

   with 
  the 
  locality. 
  Those 
  with 
  solid 
  wheels 
  

   hail 
  from 
  beyond 
  the 
  Lempa 
  River, 
  which 
  

   flows 
  in 
  from 
  Honduras. 
  Bamboo 
  sides 
  

   on 
  the 
  cart 
  indicate 
  that 
  the 
  owner 
  lives 
  

   in 
  a 
  lowland 
  region 
  ; 
  cane 
  sides, 
  the 
  sugar 
  

   district; 
  hide 
  lining, 
  the 
  cattle 
  country. 
  

  

  On 
  one 
  of 
  our 
  saddle 
  journeys 
  we 
  rode 
  

   up 
  to 
  a 
  railroad 
  station 
  and 
  bought 
  tickets 
  

   for 
  ourselves 
  and 
  our 
  mounts, 
  riders 
  and 
  

   horses 
  boarding 
  the 
  same 
  train. 
  Almost 
  

   every 
  train 
  carries 
  an 
  animal-car. 
  In 
  an 
  

   hour 
  we 
  got 
  off 
  and 
  once 
  more 
  started 
  

   across 
  country. 
  

  

  One 
  of 
  these 
  journeys 
  took 
  us 
  through 
  

   the 
  cattle 
  country. 
  Cattle 
  are 
  not 
  only 
  

   abundant, 
  but 
  seem 
  to 
  thrive 
  with 
  little 
  

   or 
  no 
  attention. 
  Beef 
  is 
  moderate 
  in 
  

   price. 
  As 
  in 
  all 
  tropical 
  countries, 
  meat 
  

   must 
  here 
  be 
  cooked 
  and 
  eaten 
  the 
  same 
  

   day 
  the 
  animal 
  is 
  killed. 
  

  

  Gold 
  and 
  silver 
  rank 
  high 
  among 
  Sal- 
  

   vador's 
  products. 
  Up-to-date 
  methods 
  

   in 
  gold 
  mining 
  were 
  introduced 
  twenty 
  

   years 
  ago, 
  when 
  an 
  energetic 
  American 
  

   engineer 
  obtained 
  a 
  property 
  of 
  high- 
  

   grade 
  ore 
  and 
  installed, 
  with 
  British 
  cap- 
  

   ital, 
  a 
  most 
  complete 
  equipment. 
  Later, 
  

   acquiring 
  a 
  large 
  tract 
  of 
  low-grade 
  ore, 
  

   he 
  agreed 
  to 
  permit 
  government 
  students 
  

   to 
  complete 
  their 
  studies 
  in 
  mining 
  and 
  

   metallurgy 
  at 
  his 
  properties. 
  Thus 
  Sal- 
  

   vador 
  secured, 
  without 
  expense, 
  a 
  mod- 
  

   ern 
  mining 
  school. 
  

  

  After 
  the 
  Armistice 
  I 
  again 
  visited 
  Sal- 
  

   vador. 
  San 
  Salvador, 
  the 
  capital, 
  with 
  

  

  75,000 
  inhabitants, 
  is 
  connected 
  with 
  the 
  

   port 
  of 
  Acajutla 
  by 
  an 
  English 
  railway. 
  

   It 
  lies 
  65 
  miles 
  inland 
  and 
  a 
  little 
  over 
  

   2,000 
  feet 
  above 
  the 
  sea. 
  The 
  railroad 
  

   crosses 
  the 
  territory 
  devastated 
  by 
  the 
  

   1917 
  lava 
  flow 
  from 
  the 
  volcano, 
  San 
  

   Salvador. 
  The 
  country's 
  loss 
  was 
  esti- 
  

   mated 
  at 
  $15,000,000. 
  It 
  required 
  six 
  

   months 
  to 
  rebuild 
  that 
  portion 
  of 
  the 
  

   railroad 
  which 
  was 
  swept 
  away. 
  

  

  SCARS 
  OF 
  THE: 
  LAVA 
  FLOW 
  OF 
  1917 
  

  

  On 
  both 
  sides 
  of 
  the 
  track 
  tower 
  fan- 
  

   tastically 
  shaped 
  lava 
  hills. 
  Here 
  and 
  

   there 
  a 
  great 
  tree, 
  which 
  withstood 
  the 
  

   flow 
  of 
  boiling 
  mud 
  and 
  burning 
  lava, 
  

   stands 
  isolated 
  among 
  the 
  ruins, 
  with 
  a 
  

   tiny 
  green 
  oasis 
  at 
  its 
  feet. 
  I 
  was 
  re- 
  

   minded 
  of 
  those 
  tragic 
  fields 
  at 
  the 
  

   French 
  front 
  as 
  I 
  saw 
  them 
  in 
  191 
  6. 
  

  

  The 
  capital, 
  even 
  in 
  the 
  shadow 
  of 
  its 
  

   smoking 
  namesake, 
  was 
  quickly 
  rebuilt. 
  

   Although 
  founded 
  in 
  1525, 
  it 
  has 
  quite 
  a 
  

   modern 
  air. 
  While 
  one-story 
  structures 
  

   predominate, 
  there 
  are 
  a 
  number 
  of 
  

   splendid 
  government 
  and 
  municipal 
  build- 
  

   ings 
  of 
  reinforced 
  concrete 
  and 
  several 
  

   fine 
  parks. 
  

  

  Because 
  of 
  tragic 
  lessons 
  of 
  the 
  past, 
  

   the 
  Cathedral 
  is 
  constructed 
  of 
  wood 
  

   painted 
  to 
  resemble 
  stone. 
  The 
  capital's 
  

   name, 
  San 
  Salvador, 
  was 
  chosen 
  by 
  Al- 
  

   varado, 
  its 
  pious 
  founder, 
  in 
  commemo- 
  

   ration 
  of 
  his 
  final 
  decisive 
  victory 
  over 
  

   the 
  Indians 
  of 
  Cuscatlan, 
  on 
  the 
  eve 
  of 
  

   the 
  festival 
  of 
  San 
  Salvador. 
  

  

  women 
  enjoy 
  full 
  privileges 
  with 
  

   men 
  in 
  Salvador's 
  clubs 
  

  

  The 
  planters 
  spend 
  part 
  of 
  each 
  year 
  

   in 
  their 
  town 
  houses. 
  To 
  those 
  who 
  pic- 
  

   ture 
  the 
  life 
  of 
  all 
  Latin 
  American 
  women 
  

   as 
  secluded 
  and 
  overchaperoned, 
  it 
  may 
  

   come 
  as 
  a 
  surprise 
  that 
  the 
  Salvadorian 
  

   women 
  of 
  the 
  educated 
  class 
  live 
  much 
  

   as 
  we 
  do. 
  

  

  In 
  the 
  capital's 
  two 
  leading 
  social 
  clubs, 
  

   wives, 
  mothers, 
  sisters, 
  and 
  daughters 
  of 
  

   members 
  enjoy 
  full 
  privileges 
  with 
  the 
  

   men. 
  Many 
  of 
  these 
  women 
  have 
  been 
  

   educated 
  abroad, 
  are 
  accomplished 
  lin- 
  

   guists, 
  go 
  in 
  for 
  athletic 
  sports, 
  and 
  share 
  

   with 
  the 
  men 
  the 
  responsibility 
  of 
  large 
  

   country 
  estates. 
  

  

  The 
  upper 
  classes 
  are 
  most 
  progressive, 
  

   a 
  large 
  proportion 
  having 
  traveled 
  exten- 
  

  

  