30 



THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 



Photograph by Ralph Stock 



PETER INTERVIEWS THE UGHT-KEEPER'S WIPE ON SAN 

 CRISTOBAL (CHATHAM) ISLAND 



The name of the Galapagos Archipelago is derived from galapago, 

 a tortoise, on account of the giant species peculiar to the islands. 

 Owing to the isolation of the Galapagos group, these tortoises were 

 of special value to Darwin in his studies relating to the "Origin of 

 Species." 



your own blankets, would be getting the 

 boot in a short three months, and with 

 him went every one — every one ! 



What was then to happen to the offi- 

 cials he had placed in power? More 

 important still, what was to happen to 

 this particular official ? He must accom- 

 pany us. It was the only possible solu- 

 tion. He would work. Carramba, how 

 he would work ! and for nothing but his 

 passage to anywhere — anywhere! 



Steve and 1 exchanged glances. The en- 

 tire crew of the Dream Ship was, it may 



be mentioned, exceed- 

 ingly tired of cooking. 

 The comisario seized 

 on our silence. 



SEnor bhx joins 



THE CREW 



"Maybe we thought 

 he could not work !" 

 With a dramatic 

 gesture he tore from 

 his neck the passion- 

 ate tie, from his feet 

 the silk socks, from 

 his back a violently 

 striped shirt, and 

 stood revealed in a 

 natty line of under- 

 vests. 



"Poor devil," said 

 I, thinking of the 

 Dream Ship's fo'cas- 

 tle iri a seaway. 



"Poor nothing," 

 said Steve. "H e 

 wants work;: let him 

 have it." 



And that was how 

 Senor , hence- 

 forth known as "Bill," 

 came to j oin the 

 Dream Ship. 



We sailed and sailed 

 before a steady south- 

 east trade wind for 

 twenty-two days, dur- 

 ing which the comi- 

 sario suffered alter- 

 nately from seasick- 

 n e s s, homesickness, 

 and sheer inability to 

 to do anything but 

 smoke cigarettes and 

 sleep. Our water tanks, under the magic 

 wand of the Galapagos beach reservoir, 

 transformed themselves into aquariums 

 of energetic animalculae, and our entire 

 biscuit supply crumbled to dust under the 

 onslaughts of a particularly virulent red 

 ant. 



But these be incidentals to life aboard 

 dream ships, and at the first sight of 

 Nukuhiva faded to little more than amus- 

 ing memories. 



A fine island this — as fine a volcanic 

 island as one will find anywhere. Sheer 





