ITINERARY. 21 



wood. Grass could be seen protruding through the snow. Wind drifts and marks 

 in the snow indicated very strong wind storms; indeed, we had been warned by the 

 natives last met to go into camp if a blow from the north came on. The pass was visi- 

 ble at the end of a march of 20 miles. I left camp standing and proceeded to explore 

 the pass, which appeared to be short and easily passable. It was impossible to esti- 

 mate correctly the length of portage for the canoes on account of the frozen condi- 

 tions. On April 30, being satisfied that the mountains could be crossed through this 

 pass, which I called Anaktuvuk, from the northward-flowing liver that it leads to, 

 we started on the return to Bergman, which, with our now lightened sled, we reached 

 on the morning' of Mav 3. During our absence Mr. Schrader had arrived with 

 the rest of the party, according to the original plan. He had found the trail again 

 covered with snow, and to make better progress had thrown away tent, stove, and 

 other articles. 



On the reconnaissance up John River, about thirty natives — men, women, 

 and children — were counted. It is their custom to ascend the tributaries of the 

 Kovukuk in winter to hunt. Caribou is their principal source of food. They never 

 go beyond timber line, and it is very seldom that natives of the north coast come as 

 far south. "When the waters run they build rafts and float down, bringing skins to 

 Bergman for trade. 



It was now too late to move the cache of provisions with sleds, for the snow was 

 fast becoming soft and the streams were beginning to run. We therefore proceeded 

 to Bergman to await the breaking up of Kovukuk River, and spent the remaining 

 time in starting plane-table work in that vicinity. A base was measured on the river, 

 and four points had been occupied with plane table, when travel became impossible. 



At Bergman there were three white men, and but one of these, Mr. Powers, the 

 agent, was there percnanentby. Not more than half a dozen natives live near the 

 trading post. Mr. Powers succeeded in keeping a horse all winter, feeding him 

 oatmeal and hay, made from a coarse native grass. Several horses were also wintered 

 at Bettles. 



The cost of travel from Seattle to Bergman, via Skagway, during the winter, is 

 about §800 per man. The cost of freight from San Francisco to Bergman, by ocean 

 and river steamers, was $150 per ton. 



CANOE TRIP FROM BETTLES TO POINT BARROW. 



On May 29 the river ice broke, but jammed again in a few minutes. It alternately 

 moved and jammed until June 6, when the river became practical^ clear of ice. On 

 June 8 the river steamer Luella came down from winter quarters and carried the 

 party and outfit up again to Bettles. Preparations were immediately begun for 

 ascending John River, and Lookout Mountain was occupied with the plane table. 



