THE RED DYE-STUFFS OF INDIA. 69 



from Mr. Cope, the other with the Nepal munjeet received from Dr. Camp- 

 bell. They were both inferior in colour, especially the Kangra munjeet- 

 dyed specimen, to those received from Mr. Cope. 



With the view of making our information on this point more complete, 

 it is thought desirable to introduce in this place the local (Calcutta) native 

 process of dyeing the few pieces of cloth above referred to, as given by the 

 dyer (Juggoo Bundhoo, Sircar of Chitpore) : — 



" About fifteen tolas of each kind of munjeet were exposed to the sun ; 

 when perfectly well dried they were broken into small pieces, and the bark 

 taken off, leaving the pure dyeing substance, which, having been dried 

 again, was reduced to powder. During this operation two pieces of cloth, 

 about nine feet long and two feet broad, were well washed in clear cold 

 water ; when dried they were washed in a decoction of the gall of the 

 haare tukee (Terminalia chebula) and dried ; they were then laid over two 

 tables, and a thick liquid substance,* previously prepared, was put over 

 them by means of a small flat piece of wood called 'pottaee ;'- the cloths 

 being dried, were put for a brief period on the surface of the running water 

 of the river Hooghly, and they were then thrown with full force ten times 

 over a large flat piece of wood (such as used by washermen) ; they were 

 afterwards dried ; and when all this was done, the munjeet powder was put 

 on the fire with about a seer of water in two different pots, and Dhallphul 

 (the flowers of Grislea tomentosa), which is used as a mordant. When the 

 water was in a boiling state, the two pieces of cloths were put in these two 

 pots, and were constantly shaken by means of a stick for upwards of six 

 hours, during which time the fire was made to burn gently — that is to say, 

 neither very strongly nor very feebly ; the cloths were then taken out, 

 washed in cold water, and dried." 



Chat-root. — This is the produce of a herbaceous plant belonging to the 

 natural order Rabiacece, and known as Oldenlandia (Hedyotis) umbellata. It 

 is common in sandy soils along the Coromandel coast. The dye is obtained 

 from the roots, which are long, much divided, and slender. The plant is 

 found both wild and cultivated. In commerce the roots are met with in 

 small bundles from an inch and a half to two inches in circumference, of 

 thin twisted roots from six to nine inches in length. The contortions are 

 nearly regular throughout their entire length, and resemble in form the 

 convolutions of a corkscrew, of which they are about the thickness. The 

 native dyers assign the first place to that quality which yields the deepest 

 red, and which is employed for dyeing thread before it is taken to the loom. 

 This is woven into handkerchiefs formerly in great demand under the name 

 of Pulicats A considerable quantity are still exported to Antwerp. 

 Others, with patterns in which chocolate tints are found, and known as 

 Madras handkerchiefs, go the West Indies and Southern States of America, 

 through the port of London. These are much prized by the negroes. 



' This substance is composed of gum arabic, alum, and sugar of lead : the two latter 

 are given in very small quantities. 



