ON SOME EDIBLE FUNGI. 



143 



that of the latter is attached to the stem at its base. It is equally esteemed 



on the Continent. 



Helvetia crispa. — The best substitute for the expensive morell may- 

 be found in two of our indi- 

 genous species of Helvella (H. 

 crispa and H. lacunosa). Like 

 the morell, they may be collected 

 during the season, dried, and pre- 

 served for use all the year round. 

 He must be, indeed, an excellent 

 judge, who can detect the difference 

 in flavour between the Morchella 

 and the Helvella, for both are 

 equally good. Berkeley enume- 

 rates four species found in Great 

 Britain — i. e., H. crispa, lacunosa, 

 elastica, and epliippium. Doubtless 

 all of them would be esculent, 

 but the first two only have pre- 

 sented themselves in my experience. 



Helvella crispa has a lobed and deflexed pileus, pallid above and ochra- 

 ceous beneath. The stem is fistulose or hollow ; when dried the texture is 

 tough and leathery, and in this condition it resembles crumbled-up pieces 

 of wash-leather, that have been saturated with water and allowed to dry. 

 It is a common species in woods, and may occasionally be found growing 

 on banks in the autumn. It is almost impossible to confound these with any 

 other species of Fungi found in Britain, so that they may be enjoyed with- 

 out fear. 



Helvella lacunosa is also a common species found in similar localities 

 to the last. It much resembles H. crispa in 

 everything save the colour of the pileus, which 

 in this instance is cinereous-black. I have 

 not met with this kind so large, or so plenti- 

 fully, as the other. For all purposes to which 

 the morell is applicable, these species may, 

 either of them, be substituted. They impart 

 an excellent flavour to gravies and soups, and 

 in establishments where they have been once 

 introduced and tested, will, I doubt not, for 

 ever afterwards hold the supreme sway, to the 

 exclusion of the more aristocratic Morell. 

 Unlike the Agarics, there is no necessity for 

 the Helvellas to be used as soon as gathered ; 

 for this reason, superadded to an experi- 

 ence of their excellent cpialities, one can but 



