ON THE PERFUMERY TRADE. 179 



squares, and stamped at once, which saves at least three-fourths of the 

 labour used in foreign countries. 



The perfumes exhibited are mostly of good quality, the alcohol used 

 for their basis being generally distilled from grain, and perfectly 

 inodorous. It was formerly thought that spirits distilled from wine 

 (usually called Montpellier spirits) were the best for perfumery jrarposes ; 

 but the principal houses have now adopted grain spirits, as being the 

 most neutral and free from that senanthetic flavour inherent to spirits 

 of wine, which is liable to impair the fragrance of very delicate 

 perfumes. Now even French perfumers are beginning to use English 

 grain alcohol to make their best perfumes. 



The toilet preparations exhibited in the British department are mostly 

 deficient in that outward attractive appearance which is the distinguish- 

 ing feature in foreign preparations ; but this does not affect the quality, 

 Which is generally good. The principal novelties we noticed were the 

 happy introduction of glycerine into some toilet articles, and a new 

 method of fumigation by volatilizing fragrant molecules through a 

 current of steam. 



India exhibits a very extensive and interesting collection of native 

 fragrant herbs, waters, oils, and other materials adapted for perfumery 

 purposes, the principal of which will be found in the following, 

 together with such information respecting them, as we have been able 

 to derive from the East India catalogue, and from our own observa- 

 tions : — 



Eoosa-grass, alias Ginger-grass, or Indian Geranium (Andropogon 

 nardus) ; Jubbulpore ; grass and essential oil. 



Lemon-grass, alias Verbena (Andropogon schsenanthus) ; Chota Nag- 

 pore ; essential oil. 



Citronella (Andropogon citratum) ; Madras and Peaang ; essential oil. 



Vetivert (Anatherum muricatum, called, in Indian Catalogue, Andro- 

 pogon muricatum) ; Khus-khus ; Lucknow and Cuttack ; Rhizome and 

 essential oil. 



Pot-pourri (Mattaghussa) ; Calcutta ; mixture of fragrant herbs. 



Gingelly, or Sesamum Oil (Sesamum Orientale) ; Teel ; Shahabad 

 and other places ; oil used in India for perfumery. 



Pand (Michelia champaca) ; Champa-ka-utter, or Keenla-ka-utter ; 

 Calcutta ; essential oil. 



Pandang (Pand anus odoratissimus) ; Kawra-ka-utter, or Keenla-ka- 

 utter ; Calcutta and Lucknow ; essential oil. 



Artemisia indica'; Donna-ka-utter ; Calcutta; leaves and essential oil. 



Mesua ferrea ; Nagkusur-ka-utter ; Calcutta ; essential oil. 



Jasmin sp. (Jasminum hirsutum, or Sambac) ; Motia-ka, or Bella-ka- 

 utter ; Calcutta and Lucknow ; essential oil. 



Patchouli (Pogostemon patchouli) : Puchaput-ka-utter ; Calcutta ; 

 leaves and essential oil. 



Phoenix dactylifera ; Kurna-ka-utter ; Calcutta ; essential oil. 



