220 

 INDIAN MANUFACTURES IN PRECIOUS METALS. 



BY A. M. DOWLEANS. 



The finest enamelled work of India is produced in the independent 

 Rajpootana state of Jeypore, and considered of great artistic merit. The 

 enamellers came originally from Lahore. The enamel is a kind of glass 

 made in earthen vessels, and when fused the colouring matters are added ; 

 the whole is then allowed to cool, and in this state is kept for use. Only 

 pure silver or gold articles are enamelled. From the silver the enamel 

 may come off in course of time ; but it never does from the gold. All 

 good enamel is consequently only applied to gold, which must be free 

 from alloy, or otherwise it would tarnish by contact with the enamel in 

 the great heat to which it is subsequently exposed. The gold is first 

 carved of the required pattern ; the enamel, having been ground to an 

 impalpable powder, and made into a paste with water, is then placed on 

 the exact spot required by the pattern. The article is then strongly 

 heated, much skill being required to take it out at the precise moment 

 when the enamel is thoroughly fused, but before the colours begin to run 

 into one another. As soon as removed, the workmen then exert the full 

 power of their lungs in blowing upon it as quickly and as violently as 

 possible. The hardest colours are first placed in the furnace and fused, 

 and then those which melt more easily. Afterwards the whole is ground 

 and polished. The enamelled work of Jeypore is very highly valued, 

 and can only be procured through H. H. the Rao of Jeypore himself, by 

 whom the workmen are employed. The artisans themselves form a small 

 family, and the real process of enamelling is kept by them as a secret, 

 which descends from father to son like an heirloom. 



Enamelling, as applied to jewellery, consists of an extremely fine pen- 

 cilling of flowers and fancy designs in a variety of colours, the prevailing 

 ones being white, red, and blue, and is invariably applied to the inner 

 sides of bracelets, armlets, anklets, necklaces, earrings, surpezes, tiaras, 

 and all that description of native jewellery, the value depending upon 

 the fineness of the work, and often exceeding that of the precious stones 

 themselves. In general the cost is moderate, as the finest specimens are 

 only made to order. The best come from Benares, Delhi, and the Raj- 

 pootana states. 



The manufacture of enamels on articles of domestic use like the 

 above is almost entirely restricted to Hyderabad. It presents no varie- 

 ties, but in general consists of a blue coating interlined with white on a 

 surface of silver, and is applied to rose-water sprinklers, spice-boxes, 

 basins, and such-like articles. The merit of the manufacture lies in the 

 simplicity of the enamel itself, and in the lightness of the silver article 

 to which it is applied. Though pi easing, it is the coarsest enamel pro- 

 duced in India. 



Bidri, or Biddery ware, derives its name from Bider, a city situated 



