236 ON SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE EXHIBITION. 



In the midst of all these discouraging impediments, there is a re- 

 deeming feature which will make itself felt when trade revives, and 

 that is the remarkable progress which our silk manufacturers have made 

 since 1851, and even since 1855, in all that constitutes superiority. 

 Whether in design, coloiu', or texture, or the whole combined, we com- 

 pare the specimens of silks in the English department with what were 

 exhibited in those years in London and Paris, the improvement is 

 immense. To single out any for special notice woidd be to make an in- 

 vidious distinction where there is so much general excellence. The 

 articles in which this improvement is perhaps most obvious are moires 

 antiques, and fancy goods of almost every variety that is exhibited. 

 But if all this applies to broad goods, much more so does it to the ribbon 

 branch. Coventry has made strides for which we were not prepared, 

 ' and their portion of the Exhibition rivets the attention of the most 

 careless visitors, be they natives or foreigners. In no respect are they, 

 as a whole, inferior to those of St. Etienne, while as compared with 

 the productions of Switzerland and the Zollverein, they are much 

 superior. 



Even in what may be called minor tours de force, two extraordinary 

 specimens of what can be accomplished in Coventry command general 

 attention (Unite d Kingdom, 3884). In the one, a group of cacti, most 

 artistically arranged, and thrown into bold relief by twenty- one tints of 

 colour, constitutes a charming picture, to the production of which no 

 less than 22,000 cards were made subservient ; and in the other, an 

 illuminated banner screen, designed by R. R. Holmes, - F.S. A., and 

 suggested by the legendary historic incident of the " Lady Godiva " pro- 

 cession, is rich in all those colours which are necessary to produce the 

 characteristics of initial letters and illustrations of missals of the early 

 days of the Church. It goes in fact, and as it ought to do, far beyond 

 those exemplars of mediaeval taste ; for, as elsewhere noticed, these 

 specimens introduce a new application of silk textures for ornamental 

 bindings and other useful purposes, where brilliancy of colour and 

 correct drawing are important ingredients. There is also to be found 

 in case No. 3885 a peculiar and unique fabric made from single fila- 

 ments of silk spun direct from the cocoon, having about twelve turns 

 to the inch both for warp and schute. The size is only two and a 

 quarter deniers (equal to 2600 hanks in the pound of cotton), and is the 

 finest silk thread ever woven. For the present, or until some useful 

 adaptation for so tender annd exquisite a texture can be discovered, it can 

 only be viewed as a new variety of tours deforce. 



It is true that for the type of fashion and taste our manufacturers 

 must still look to France, for it is there that the former yet holds its 

 court, and those producers in England must be bold who seek to 

 originate and aim at establishing another tribunal. Such courage may 

 Tiltimately succeed, but it should not be forgotten that, besides the 



