THE TECHNOLOGIST. [Mat 1, 1865. 



456 KASHMIR SHAWLS FROM THE EAST 



some are perfectly white ; and these shawls are incomparable for light- 

 ness, warmth, and softness. Formerly they were made of the wool in 

 its natural state, but his Majesty has had some of them dyed, and it is 

 surprising that they will not take a red colour. 



" 2nd. Sufed alcheh (white alcha), which they also call ' terehdar.' The 

 natural colours of the wool are white or black, and they weave three 

 sorts — white, black, and grey. Formerly there were not above three or 

 four different colours for shawls, but his Majesty has made them of 

 various hues. 



" 3rd. Zerdozee (gold-leaved) and others, which are of his Majesty's 

 inventions. * 



" 4th. From being short pieces, he had them made long enough for 

 jatnehs (gown-pieces). The shawls are classed according to the day, 

 month, year, price, colour, and weight ; and this manner of classing is 

 called 'missel.' The mushrifs, after examination, mark the quality of 

 each upon paper affixed to its corner. All those brought into the palace 

 on the day Ormuzd of the month Ferirdin (10th of March) are preferred 

 to those received afterwards of the same fineness, weight, and colour ; 

 and each is written down in order. 



" Formerly shawls were but rarely brought from Kashmir, and those 

 who had them used to wear them over the shoulders in four folds (vide 

 ancient sculptures), so that they lasted for a long time. 



"His Majesty has introduced the custom of wearing two shawls, one 

 under the other, which is a considerable addition to their beauty. By 

 the attention of his Majesty, the manufacture in Kashmir is in a very 

 flourishing state, and in Lahore there are upwards of a thousand manu- 

 factories of this commodity. They also make an imitation of shawl with 

 the warp of silk and the woof of wool, and this kind is called mayar. 

 Of both kinds are made turbans, &c." 



With this account before us, it is reasonable to suppose that varieties 

 of every kind were introduced about this period ; and the widest 

 encouragement given to these improvements doubtless tended much to 

 the progress of this trade, while these shawls continued to be a favourite 

 article of dress during the Mahommedan dynasties in particular. 



After their decline it is probable that the troubled state of Upper 

 India, and the general turbulence of the mountain character, had its effect 

 in retarding the progress of a trade involving the labour of so many 

 bauds ; but its absolute necessity as an article of wearing apparel to 

 every well-dressed native of India, Persia, and parts of Turkey, effec- 

 tually prevented the manufacture from falling into decay, even at the 

 worst of times. It was once said that there were upwards of 30,000 

 looms at work, but Strachey, who visited the country in 1809, gives 

 16,000 as the number at that time. The value of the whole produce 

 was estimated at 35 lacs of rupees (350,000/.), but Moorcroft, who was 

 there in 1S22-23, says it had declined to half that stun. A renewed 

 vigour has been instilled into it within the last forty years by the eon- 



