May 1, 1865.] THE TECHNOLOGIST. 



AND IMITATIONS THEEBOF. 459 



Latterly, great complaints have been made by European firms, of 

 the adulteration of the texture of Kashmir shawls ; and there is no 

 doubt that such adulteration is practised, especially by mixing up 

 Kirmanee wool with real pushum. In order to provide some guarantee 

 against this, it has been proposed that a guild, or company of respectable 

 traders, should be formed, who should be empowered to affix on all 

 genuine shawls a trade-mark, which should be a guarantee to the public 

 that the material of the shawl is genuine pushum, especially as the 

 Indian penal code provides a punishment for those who counterfeit or 

 falsify trade-marks, or knowingly sell goods marked with counterfeit or 

 false trade-marks. 



At Delhi, shawls are made up of pushumeea, worked with silk, and 

 embroidered with gold lace. A very delicate shawl is made of the wool 

 of a sheep found in the neighbourhood of Ladak and Kulu. The best 

 wool is procurable in a village near Rampur, on the Sutlej ; hence the 

 fabric is called "Rampur chudder." Other woollen manufactures in the 

 Punjab are Peshawur Chogas, made of the wool of the Damba sheep 

 and of camel's hair, and chogas made of patti, or the hair of the Kabul 

 goat. 



In 1802 a commencement was made in Paris ; and it is related that 

 the enormous . expense of 60,000 francs, expended in setting the loom 

 prepared for the purpose, induced the immortal Jacquard to invent his 

 wonderful process of working intricate designs with facility. In 1819 

 great success had been reached upon looms a la Tire, with Kashmir 

 wool imported for the purpose, and spun with great skill in France. 

 Not earlier, however, than 1834 was the pi'esent process called "6pouline," 

 which is the exact imitation of the Kashmirean, so introduced for 

 working intricate designs, that one man, with a Jacquard loom, can 

 produce the excellence now obtained in Paris. In fact, we find the true 

 Indian shawl there produced, but perfected by this addition of 

 machinery, and sold at about a quarter of the cost in India, their range 

 of prices being, for squares of full size, 25 to 600 francs, and for long 

 shawls of full size, 50 to 1 ,500 francs. 



In 1851, 4,000,000 francs was given as about the value of the total 

 production of these fabrics in France. Besides real Kashmir shawls 

 sold there to the extent of about seven or eight million francs, France 

 has continued in its endeavour to accomplish the production of shawls 

 made on the principle of those of India. Great changes have taken 

 place by the French manufacturers adopting the many improvements in 

 weaving in the last ten years. Those who formerly made only a superior 

 shawl now also make a medium quality, while there are many instances 

 of those who formerly made the medium style having attempted the 

 superior with success. The consumption has therefore increased, and 

 the public receive the benefit of this competition. France has eighty- 

 seven shawl manufacturers, many of them very extensive producers. 



Shawls made -by Harness or Jacquard Looms. — In this branch of 



