** 
Cuar. LII.] AMOY DESCRIBED. 35 
barren rocky nature of the coast, and in some parts 
has a view of hills of sand, the particles of which, 
when a hurricane blows, mix with the wind, 
and whiten the ropes of vessels, and render it 
most unpleasant to be in the vicinity. Here and 
there he has a view of what appear to be rather 
fertile plains amongst the hills, cultivated with 
sweet potatoes, rice and the other staple produc- 
tions of the country. On the top of the highest 
hills along the coast, and as far as the eye can 
reach inland, pagodas are seen towering, which 
serve as excellent marks to the mariner as he sails 
along the shores. As we approached nearer to 
Amoy we passed Chapel Island, remarkable for 
having a large natural tunnel right through its 
centre, which has a most striking and curious 
appearance when vessels come in a line with it. 
In the afternoon we anchored in the harbour of 
Amoy between that island and Koo-lung-soo, 
Amoy is a city of the third class, seven or 
eight miles in circumference, and densely popu- 
lated. It is one of the filthiest towns which I 
have ever seen, either in China or elsewhere ; worse 
even than Shanghae, and that is bad enough. When 
I was there in the hot autumnal months, the 
streets, which are only a few feet wide, were 
thatched over with mats to protect the inhabitants 
from the sun. At every corner the itinerant 
cooks and bakers were pursuing their avocations, 
and disposing of their delicacies; and the odours 
which met me at every point were of the most 
D2 
