350 CHINESE TRAVELLING. — [Cuar. X1X. 
and so thin was he, that his cheek bones seemed 
piercing the skin. Some seemed care-worn with 
business, and others again apparently slept soundly 
with hearts light and joyous. All had the fore part 
of their heads shaved, and their tails lay about in 
wild confusion. 
We were now far on our way across the bay 
having had a fair wind and tide during the greater 
part of the night, and the hills near Chapoo were 
already visible on the horizon to the northward. 
All hands were soon busily engaged in getting 
breakfast ready. A Chinese sea breakfast consists 
chiefly of rice, fish, and vegetables. The proprie- 
tors of the junk provide food for the passengers, for 
which they charge a small sum from each, indepen- 
dent of the passage-money. If the passengers do 
not choose to have breakfast, or dinner, they are not 
required to pay for it. When breakfast was ended, 
some began to smoke opium and others tobacco, 
after which most of them went to bed again and 
were soon fast asleep. The Chinese when travelling 
do little else than eat, smoke, and sleep. During the 
whole time I was travelling in the country, I never 
remember seeing one Chinese engaged in reading. 
About eleven in the forenoon we came to anchor 
in a muddy bay abreast of the city of Chapoo, where 
many of the junks are high and dry at low water. 
I had my luggage put into a small sand-pan and 
rowed for the shore. ‘You had better take off 
your shoes and stockings, and draw up y our trow- 
sers,” said one of the Chinese boatmen as we were 
getting near the landing-place. The prudence and 
