FOKEST AND STREAM. 



[AUOUST 5, 1880. 



After leaving tlie Thousand Islands, cm tlie roi'te rlcnvn pavticulavly cliarmin<t to me in Uip popxilation, the farms 

 the St. Lawrence, the leading attractions are the Rapids, and in tlio numerous vUlageH. The people are oxclusirely 

 Within the suare of about one hundred miles below French Jiabitans. and the little churches Trith twin 



Prescott and OgiU-iiKburf^, which are on opposite sides of 

 the river. Ihe fall ot water is about one hundred and 

 fortj- feet : but this de.scent occurs chiefly -witliia two 

 reaches, which measure ten and twelve miles. The 

 names of the six principal rapids are the Long Sault, the 

 Corteau du Sac. iBie Cediirs, the Split Rock, the Cascades 

 and theLaehineKapidfi. The navi-atioii is, of course, intri- 

 cate, and the currents vimv p*werlul and fearful to con- 

 tempkte. but the HtHnmcr«Vue so well managed by experi- 

 enced Canadian pilots that accidents have seldom hap- 

 ])enpd The passage of all these rapids is something quite 

 feavi'id lo tlie majority of people, but to those who have 

 rim tberiii.ids of'tlio North, with Indians to tlieir birch 

 canoes, the dangers are not so appalling. But shotdd the 

 steamer happen to run the rapids, at the same time that 

 two or three great timber rafts, ornamented with sails and 

 huts upon them , come booming down on eitlier side ot her 

 own course, the excitement is greatly enhanced ; and if 

 accompanied by a thuuderstorm, thei-e is then .something 

 truly fearful in the passage. Of the villages on this 

 route there arc only three which p0S3e.ss any unusual 

 characteristics, uniiifly, tlie Indian villages of St, Regis 

 and Cauhuawauya and the hamlet of Lachino, which the 

 Fivnoh have so strangely mixed up with the Cliinese Em- 

 pire t and in all these places the inquisitive tourist can 

 find manv people and things of interest. A\' itii St, Regis 

 is associated the following interesting bit of history : 

 The tourist will obsei-ve from the deck of the steamer the 

 old churcii, lifting its tin roof above the neighbormg 

 houses. The bell hanging in this church rings out this 

 Btory of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from 

 France, in the old time, it was captured by au EnRiisli 

 cruiser^ and taken into Salem, Mass., wliere it was sold 

 to the church at Deerfleld, in the same State. The In- 

 dians, hearing of the destination of their beU, sefrout for 

 IJeerdeld. attacked the town, killed forty-seven of the 

 inhabitants, and took one hundred and twelve captivts, 

 was the -y. -u, ,ii,1 lnV; fauiily. The bell 



As to '", 1 - , i: is said that its 



,aul3 were lU.. invv:.i'>i-> uf the bull game 



The shore sceuer\' ot the whole Upper 



^^ ^ _s very beautiful, especially along Lake St. 



Francis mid Lake St. Louis, and the elfects are cliHi-m- 

 iagly humanized by the white spires of the Roman 

 Catholic churches. And as the traveler approaches Mon- 

 treal and looks upon the Victoria Bridge, and then re- 

 calls the two lovelY suspension bridges which span the 

 Niagara he will conclude that the skill of man is in these 

 riarison'aparwith the splendor and the beauty of the 

 sienerj-. It is indeed true, as some one has said, this 

 St Lawrence never knew a freshet; its waters are al- 

 ways pm-e. no matter how many streams may try to 

 pollute it ; that, taking in its whole course, it is niagnill- 

 cent n.-a.le and pnchantiiig ; and although the property 

 of tvco "Lvr't imtiiais, lias always been neglected, and it 

 i« tn-d.-iY v-ithoiit a rPSDtctaUo history. 

 "Betote couclRdiiig this chapter. I must make a passmg 

 allusion to the cities of Montreal iuid yuebec, \vhich 

 the natural resting plac-s a iter iloseeudrng the 

 St. Lawrence.^ They have always had foi 



among w 

 was then 

 it now li;: 

 Indian iu 

 of Lii Cv 

 St. LawreiK 



steeples. the wooden houses one story and a half high, 

 'th dormer windows and comfortable porches, and the 



long lines of rail fences, all 

 and Eaisin rivet^j — so plensiiiid 

 childhood. Indeed, the rami y,:: 

 from Montreal, on both si-lps ,_,[ 

 ray Bay on the uortli rnid Mttis 

 and full of iiiterest. To use tli 

 tlie principal roads of each pari? 

 river, and nre c/.niiiNielv lined 

 ings. ^\sa :■:::- ;lr' M^halaUi 



of the Detroit 

 iiciated with my 

 I' the St. Lawrence 

 ver as far as Mur- 

 ' south, is peculiar 

 Oiriie of a friend, 

 1 paralhf with the 

 t,h tliesr i-nral d well- 

 are devoted to agricul- 



km 



fascination. Mv first impressions of them were recorded 

 more titan thirty years ago, and since that tune I have 

 alwavs enteretl them with pleasure and taken my de- 

 narture with regret ; but ala.s ! the ■' or<ler and bloom of 

 Ev-oae years "are well nigh all departed. M.:mtreal is 

 BtilPa most imposing and beautiful city, but the French 

 population, with their simple ways, picturesque cos- 

 tumes and old houses, funny vehicles and plcasani; socia 

 meetings, are now in a aoA minority. Ihe educational 

 institutions of the city have multiplied, and it no«- 

 boasts of at least one hotel and a galkry ot art, which do 

 mucli to make the local atmosphere genial and sunny. 

 There serins to be no abatement in the commercial 

 enterprise of the people, but that the city of Toronto has 

 proved to be a thorn in its side, cannot be doubted. The 

 ^■eat Roman Catholic Cathedral is outwardly unchanged, 

 but the interior has been completely renovated, and the 

 criticisms which 1 made upon it many years ago, and for 

 which 1 was severely scolded byju.seph U. Chandler m 

 his PhUadeliihia journal, and other.s, ought to be can- 

 celted In every way it is now a weal credit to the city, 

 but neA-ertheltBs, it "is not to be compared with its more 

 modern rival in the city of New York, now the finest 

 cluiroh edilioe in the United States. 



Of com-se I could not leave Montreal without calhng 

 to pay my respects to the most noted and most venera- 

 ble angler on the continent— Han-ison Stephens. I found 

 Vn^ in his elegant mansion, but living with his noble 

 wife in the same unpretending manner that has always 

 been his rJioics'. lli« euchusiMm for angling .seemed to 

 be as CTcac as ever, and he recalled, with enthusiastic 

 comments, our joint experiences in throwing the fly for 

 bass under tbe viatoria Bridge, and for salmon m other 

 narts of Canada. He ftjgo told me that having heard of 

 a certain lake in the valley of the St. Maurice, which 

 was famou.s for its trout, he had pprchaBed not less than 

 14 000 acres of land which surrounded it. and that I 

 must not fail to join )dm in » trouting expedition to that 

 lake ne.'ct Bumim''r, Mr. Stephens is now m the seventy- 

 ei'.hlh year of his age. and, although a native of Ver- 

 mont lie iuis been identmed with Canada for fifty years, 

 and is reputed to be the weallliiest map m tiie Do- 

 ininion. 



I was glad to learn that umong the reading people of 

 Montreal, the. late Ghaih ir . v.. as still held m af- 



fectionate remembrai. ", '"f 'i,;,"-f , '"" ^ 



pOPt,"hevvas. atthetn;- .", ml.--t., t),. most 



cdft^d literary man in C...... • ..-^ .same tune. 1 sup- 

 nose that there ar« thousands >■, iiu never heard his name, 

 CrdiHv ai-erh.- peoi.lo wlio yyould wonder at the men- 

 tion of the names ot jllilton and Bunyan and Goldsmith. 

 As I bave elsewhere recorded my opinioa of tins brd- 

 lianfc uoet of clie North, I will resist the temptation to 

 sav more at the present time. . „ , t 



When about to continue our journey to Quebec. I wag 

 aej-eeably surprised to learn that the north shore ot that 

 Dart of the St. Lawrence could bo seen and enjoyed Irom 

 K railway nain, and I was glad to avoid going down the 

 rivei- in a steamer at night, or taking tiie wmd- 

 iiiK route by railway through Richmond. This part ol 

 SiS Dominion is thickly settled, and although the scen- 

 eiy'jg not especially attractive, there was something 



ture ; enti.l, ! nii. ■ ••i enti'rprise, they tread iu the 

 steps of tlieir til ii.i-.. Tl;eie iw, perhaps, no more cheer- 

 ful, boppy or contented being in existence than the 

 habifaH:'h\a little farm supplies him wkh enough lo 

 live upon, and he never gives himsrlt anxiety about to- 

 morrow. The men, like il.c oM Frtiich peasantry, wear 

 the jjictuivsqiin lapot, and un tli-jir feet mocassnis made 

 nf cowlii.le ; tlR- women jackets of bright colors. :ind on 

 their heads either a cap or straw liat, made in die gipsy 

 fashion. They are fond of social intercom-se. and spend 

 a goodly portion of their time in visiting each other. 

 Those who live in the vicinity of Quebec or Monrreul 

 partly supply lliose markets with vf-etn'-!';-- ■;'■'' ii is not 

 anunusual thing for the torn isi in ,i ' "s to 



come suddenly upon one of ih - i ;' " ' "."S 



staff in hand, and a bundle of b:ir,l: i, ;. 1 i i' i-. 'inch 

 he wiU shortly fiU with berries, to be taken i.erhai.s many 

 a mile to market, and happy in his simpUcity, iuimmuig 

 to lumself the burden of some old Norman song Inought 

 la re bv his forefathers centuries ago. In the hahilan-S 

 house the waUs are always well whitewashed, the place 

 scrupulously clean, with flowers in the window, lo 

 may speak execrable French and mal;e mistakes, yet yo 

 never gee a smile on liis face, nor on the taiavs ol his du 

 dreu. For generations their character has u:iflei-euiie ii 

 change, their cheerfulness and primitive .sim)jla ny hav 

 been equally enduring. Truly it is pleasant to study tli 

 .sunshine of the human heart, which beams out on theee 

 rn.iiKe,] spots of Nature's handiwork. 



Among the streams which flow into lh( 

 from the north. bet\veen the rapids of 1 

 Quebec, the three most interesting are il 

 St. Maurice ajid the .Jacques Cartier, and 

 them will bo found in the two subsequei 

 this paper. It only remains for me, m tins place, tu 

 submit a few impressions of the "Citadel t'iiy" as it ap- 

 liears at the present time. And these impns^ions are by 

 no means cheering. Of ce.urse its inaguificHiit locata.u 

 and its manv beautiful surroundin.us i:an nexar be 

 changed, but the city is not now ^vliat it w.a.s m cays of 

 yore. 



Politically speaking, it is compelled to be subordinate 

 to Ottawa, the new seat of government, which is with- 

 out a history, and indebted for its prosperity tn .\meri- 

 cau enterprise. This fact alone is a bitter j.il! i- I lie- peo- 

 ple of Quebec : and the changes which iiav.- raloai place 

 in the city itself are universally regretted liv limse who 

 have recently revisited it during their summer tours. 

 Upper The old French market, with its ilelightful characteris- 

 trange I tics^ jg a thing only of tier ruist : the picturesqi 



St, Lawrence 



lat liver and 

 .■ OttaA\-a, th: 

 auacomitof 

 if 



chapten 



when the rain beat through a window .and wet the floor 

 of her chamber, she refused to let her ser\'aut wipe up 

 the water, hut went down upon her elv^^I knees and per- 

 formed the necessary t.ask. U'hen the Queen's d.iughter 

 can condescend I M such service, should we not tremble 

 for the enntinued supremacy of England'/ 



At this present writing, it is just thirtv-two years since 

 '■minohosi"of the -00,1 old St. Louis Hotel extended to 

 me his riglit baud ot liospitaliry. although then located 

 in a different localily : :uid hisaiiso of all he has hitherto 

 done in helping meld vtaeh mv lisliing rivets in com- 

 fort I cannot liut cherish his name with affection. As I 

 sat chatting ^vith him aijout the olilen times, he told mc' 

 that his son was now the chief manager of the hotel, 

 and also that this very agreeable gentleman was not born 

 at the time I made my first visit to the river Saguenay, 

 ■when my three-masted hahUnn smack, engaged for the 

 expedition, was promised from the biiuntiiul larmier of 

 Russell's Hotel. It was also with special satisfacliejn that 

 my good friend informed me that a very large proportion 

 of the summer travelers to Quebec regularly extend tlieir 

 tours to the Sagiien.iy, and that I was the man who 

 should be blamed for this annual exodus down the S(. 

 Lawrence. This ivas to me a most gratifying compli- 

 ment, and an .ippropriate sequel to another which was 

 paid to me in tnis very city by the Earl of EI.Ldn. who, 

 while I was enjoying a dinner at Spencer 'Wood, in lb.50, 

 exhibited to mo a book just received, which was the 

 English edition of my "Tour to the River Saguenay." 



■ays in all directions, ;iii' I ' ■' ' ■ i die histoncai a 

 fahtastic houses, have ' le:-d; and tlie old 



caleche, with itsobligiir, ^sfnit driver, have 



been superseded by an ui.L.....i.i - .uJ.ec invention, and 

 tlie most exasperating fireed of Lugfish and Irish hack- 

 men to be found on the face of the earth. 



The .same ancient French is spoken to-day as in the 

 olden time : social intimacy betweim the Frenoh and 

 English peopte is quite as invisible as it was a century 

 ago', ai'id the general deseilation of the Rom 

 institutions is about the same as ever. To p 



I ('alhoUo 



npa 



of t;(i" 



vtelit 



itepped into the Cor 



, _. . iieuts, only to see tin 



ipcd up in desolate rooms within tlieir pl■i^on bars, 

 and to find the Father Confessor, in his far more coiu- 

 fort.able room, descanting on the skull of Montcalm, as 

 if to exliibit the relic was a privilege of hiealculable im- 

 portance. , , i 



.A mong the many sensible suggestions made by the late 

 Governoi- General (Lord Dufferin) was one that the walls 

 and gate^vays of Quebec should be restored to their lor- 

 mer C(mditioii. and the work was commenced, but has 

 now been suspended for want of sufficient me.'uis. But 

 this sugge.,tion about the walls of Quebec was eclip.sed 

 by that other prd]josition, from the same gifted man, 

 that the entire country round the falls of Niagara should 

 be transformed into ah immeJiae international park, and 

 neutral ground tor the people of all climes. 



But I rejoice to know that there lia.s been no retro- 

 grade movement in Quebec, so far as its inteUcctual 

 character is exemplified by J. M. Le Jloine. He is un- 

 doubtedly the most interestmg literary man in Canada, 

 and his '"'Maple Leaves," '•History of Quebec," "Chroni- 

 cles of the St. Lawrence." and very numerous descrip- 

 tions of the scenery and people of his native Provmce 

 are distinguished for their merit and useluhiess. And it 

 may be said of this well-known author that, onthe 

 score of family pride, there is not another native of Can- 

 ada who has a' better right to be satisfied. Dming the 

 last two hundred years not less than seven of his ances- 

 tors have found a "place in history by doing much to ad- 

 vance French eyplorations, conquests and settlements in 

 Canada and the United States, 



During a stroll that we took tlrrough the grounds of 

 the Citadel we met "Lome and Louise." (Want of time 

 and space prevents me from here giving all the prepos- 

 terouB titles which the poor Canadians are perpetually 

 repeating. J The gentleman appeared to liave a lino and 

 manly countenance, but the ta.ly wa.s so busy with her 

 two doga that we could not distinguish her features, al- 

 though the portrait in Roliert Buchanan's hook represents 

 her as quite handsome. It is presumed that these noted 

 personages have many noble ijuahties of tnind and heart, 

 but there is something sickening to a Yankee to hear I he 

 fulsome iidulation that is constautly showered upon 

 them by the English Canadians. The wretclied mimon 

 of a soldier who look U8 about the Citadel pointed out 

 Uie plain building where the Queen's daughter does lier 

 eaiuig and sleeping after the manner of ordinary human 

 beings ; and he told us that she was a "great artist," and 

 was alwavs painting : that she was fond of a mortuug 

 ^valk, like common people, and that on a recent occasion 



— Address all eoimnvnications to " Forest and Strenin 

 Publishing Company, JVew Yoi-k." 



DEER AND DEER'S HORNS. 



IN a former number ofyourvaluable publication, and in 

 aiicwer to tVie question whether deer, when fighting, 

 are apt to get eutan;:^le<l witli their horns, you replied in 

 the allirmative. In leference to this subje'ct, I take the 

 liberty of sending t,) y(,u a couple of photographs taken 

 from hjiTi-s in my ijossession and forming part of a 

 choice collection of more than three huudreit pairs of 

 h,:,rns rolleri.sl l.y me during a residence of over thirty 

 yi !; i I ^ During this period I have hunted deer 

 hi . , I If any other game, and in this manner 

 li;,.. Ill I nil' I I fine knowledge of the subject in question. 



In dii- ruttiny season fights among tli.' Iiii-l- e".' of 

 frequent occurrence, pariienlarly whri- , i w 



does in proportion to the bucks. Tier , > ; .iie 



invariably dpsiierate. and bucks shot in Uiiji -l.h i ix lIU-ii 

 bear the marks o( th.-se conllicts, either in the shape of 

 open wounds or spi its u nder the skin, evidently the result 

 of blows received from tlioh antagonists. 



The horns are often injured and eitlier single antlers 

 broken oil or even the entire beams. The bucks attack, 

 each other very much as do billy-goats, though with 

 greater fury, and the clash of their lioms is often lieard 

 to some distance. Luring this treason the hunter fre- 

 quently succeeds in killing a sly old buck which had out- 

 geiieralled liim for years. Some of the handsomest 

 rroiihies in mv uoIlectiVm are horns of bucks shot during 

 the rnttinL' s.'ason. Before that time, that is to say, he- 

 fore the muufch of No\ ember in Western Texas, the old 



bucks are very rarely seen, They browse by night only, 

 and -with daybreak disappear in the thicket, not to leave 

 it again until nightfall. The hunter, therefore, but 

 seldom gets a slmt at one of them. 



Butocca£ie.n,a!lv, when spurred by lust and jealousy, 

 the old buck is tempted to leave the shelter of the woods, 

 to which he is never to return. 



Further West, toward the Rio Grande, the rutting 

 season commences later, and not untU the middle of 

 December. During an extensive tour which I made in 

 December last to the hunting grounds between the 

 Nueces River and Rio Grande, in company with several 

 friends, we saw but few bucks, owing to the fact that 

 the rutting season had not commenceil a.s yet, the bucks 

 mtau%i'hile remaining concealed in llie impenetrable 

 thickets of mesquit brusli and prickly pear so chai'acter- 

 istic of that region. In January I again went over the 

 same ground in the company of a single fellow sports- 

 man, and we had the good luck to kill seventy-one deer 

 inside of two weeks, of which fifty-three were bucks and 

 only eighteen <loe5. Everwhere the sandv soil showed 

 traces of the ilesperato conflicts between Ihe bucks, large 

 patches of ground being turned up by the hoofs of the 

 combatants^ and in one place I ootdd'distinctly perceive 

 that the liorns of two bucks had become entangled, and 

 the traces on the ground showed where they had fallen 

 and the stronger of the two had dragged the other some 

 distance. Undoubtedly they were separatel by some 

 lucky accident, as I could discover no further tracks of 

 them. , -T 1 i. 



The deer, in the country between the Nueces and the 

 Rio Grande, feed almost exclusively upon the ever- 

 abundant prickly pear, as do the numerous flocks of 

 bheep grazing in that section. They require only little 

 water, in quest ot which they go but seldom. Their 

 color is far darker than that of the deer found further 

 East, which live on grass, acorns, etc. ; these latter are 

 generally larger in size, but the former have compara- 

 tively larger horns. The fact of their feeding exclusively 

 on prickly pear may account in some degroe for their 



