50i 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[Jawhabt 27, 1881. 



Bh^ M^ortBttmn gmtrisL 



TRE LOG OF THE FAVORITE, NO. 3. 



,^„„, Glaoter Bay, Cross SonsB, Atac;. 20, 1880. 

 T'TlrtyEBSyouare provkltid wUli lietter clinrlH of Alaska 

 KJ waters tliau I am, I am Hiire that, ym vvill ]»• imnlii,. n> 

 triuie out Uie locality from -which I diiic ihis Jctiei : irT on 

 all of mine an unbroken coast-line (dotted on some r,o .show 

 that the region is linsurveyed) occurs wlicii we have found, 

 well hidden by over-lapping islands, the entrance to a great 

 bay, through which we are now steHujiug at full speed, bav- 

 in,^ spptit the day in exploration and .surveying. 1 inclose a 

 Hketelj which embodica our results, and on il""\'ou v.-iil lind 

 uiniiis, as yel in their infancy; for the places hav.- b.ni 

 cbristcncd hy us within the last forty-eight boui'S— " Glaoier 

 l^ay," ">[ud Bay," "Sherman" Island," "Wiloutrbbv 

 Cove" and others. " • 



Through this bay we liave steamed over thirty miles on a 

 uortberlycour.se, aud found deep blue water; and have not 

 tound any liiddeu (inngers which would prevent a steam 

 vessel in;niy tiujes greater tliau the Favorite from safely 

 iniversmg it ; an.l when linally deterred from furtli(>r prog- 

 ress northward by threatening weather, we reliieiantTv 

 turned JO retrace oiu loute. we' bad good reason to believe 

 that we could have added ten ea- twelfe miles to ,mr i-mruev 

 toward the Pole, for the local pilot.? who were with us -''Dicli:'" 

 Wilougbbj^ and Indians— dampened our ardor for a canoe 

 trip to the bead of the bay by the assurance, that its distance 

 was fully three bom-s— the ardor being a natimil lesult rioni 

 the glowing descriptions they gave of the mflgniiicent 

 .scenery wbicb there existed, of mountaui peaks, and im- 

 mense canyons through which, from all directions, treuiou- 

 dous glaciers converged and pushed their way over preci- 

 pices into tie sea. 



We -were lotli to leave these wonders unseen, but a dense 

 fog banli, born evidently of the glaciers, himsover the north- 

 ern horizon, abultii.ginall ]wnhs and laud.scape, and pos-i- 

 bililiesol contact Willi the Hoes and bergs wbieb re.-siiited 

 from the glaciers, rendered it imprudent to visit them in tlic 

 i'^ivorite. and probabilities amounting to certainties of a 

 ilnily, niiiomfortable trip of perhaps twelve hours in open 

 canoes made us hesitate and give up. 



_ Tlie cm-tains of ice, wbicb tfirough force of gravity detach 

 themselves from the a<lvacin!r trlaciers, are ihe iceber"-s -wd 

 floes -which give to ley Straiislts name. ''' 



The entrance to OlaeierBay is due nortli from Point Adol- 

 phus where the soulbenimost of a group ot loft v i^let" forms 

 apparentiy a point on the eoa.st.'tlie surface'of the )jav is 

 dotted with barren granite islands ;uid roeks bi sroups an<l 

 detached; some of the islands are quite large, and Diek i.s- 

 sured us that several of- them were rich iu silver and n-au>n'a 



Reports and specimens of ore broutrbt b_v the IndTans to 

 Sitk.a, -. Ill iML , iiiinn.s whieli bad drawn him from the more 

 <^^""K'-|||^ ''"■ ' I ' " "1 'be miner's camps and dance bouses 



'f ,^"v ', ■ ' ■"'- and lonely regions, and be seemed 



to Ice. Ih;.. ,:i.-, r.jjiunsoiiic trip had met with full reward . • 

 to use bis own lai:guage, " I've struck it rich this time, you 

 bet." I hope be has, but Dick has "struck it " in the same 

 manner very often, yet is slltl ' sparring for a stake " 



He -was very positive as to the existence of these deposits 

 and wanted us to land on some of the islands, one in particu 

 lar, on the precipitous face of which we could see a bri"bt 

 streak beginning not twenty feet from the w^ater, -ivbicfi streali 

 be pronounced a ■' stringer," and be talked in glowing terms 

 of the " dips" and "leails " aud "croppings " wbieblie had 

 esaniined, and wanted ns to also, but this we coidd not and 

 did not do, time was precious, aud wc were not "on the 

 prospect," and we had, dm'ing a winterinSitka, thrown daily 

 into contact -with dozens of prospective millionaires >»rown 

 somewhat accustomed to the generally extrava-aiit anfie-ipa- 

 tions which reward so often the miner insteadof substantial 

 realizations. I don't doubt but that Dick la lieves all tliat be 

 says, but can't vouch for it niy.self. There is generally a 

 tromeudoiis difference in Ibe pVoporlionid quantit v of'silVca- 

 and golel in a ton of rock as measured hy tlie ideas of the 

 tinders, by the result obtained from aji "assay ton," aud the 

 crushing of a real ton. 



We liad oilur things to attend to so we left the islands un- 

 explored and, wishing Dick's luck to prove true, kept on to 

 the northward till we reached on the western shon' the mouth 

 of an inlet at the lu;ad of which we hoped to liud a powerful 

 chief who witbhisfanulymadelicrebissimjmerlu.me, and to 

 liold witli biiii some btlle"c<inverse with the object of complet- 

 ingllie ar.wing of good seed which we bad begun thedaybefore 

 in iiiteiview with Kah-boo-doo sak, and other Hoonab chiefs, 

 froiii whirl, seed we hoped for a harvest in the shape of 

 friendly and bai-momous relations bet ween the Inditms and 

 white men, and the prevention of a tlnvaleued war between 

 tbc Hoouabs and 6im-sinis. Wc biilud, however, to lind this 

 ranch, for tis we tin-ned into the mouth of die inlet the water 

 shoaled suddenly, and nor over a limidied yards from where 

 the last cast of ihe lead ga'.e ai:ileeii bitlioms v.'c struck as 

 many feet. " Stoj) ber," and "Hacklier," were llie orders, but 

 before headway ceascil the leadsman's nervous shout "Eleven 

 feet,, sir," sliowed us tliat the keel of the Favorite was iu a 

 de,ciralile proximity to a bard bott;om. As soon as 

 r- . , I : -'i, j.ved a safe distance a boat was lowered, 

 I ,: I !,rurted in search of a channel through 



III ■ ■ liiousbay we .saw beyond. 



iijii ,. ,,,i:iii:,:j! 'Ii-ep "eiiiiij-b t-'e' lerir -i 'ni'iTer steamer. 



deepen i 

 .and till; 

 tbc ba- 

 He fi, 

 hut bef. 

 attempt 

 uortbware 



,her I,,- .... . . ,,„ ,,._:-,,_ ;, ,:;^to ,1,3 



ter point, and it was thought imprudent to delay, so the boat 

 was recalled and we started fidl speed, outi-un the fog bank 

 and are now running in hopes of reaching a safe harbor for 

 the night, aud to-mon-ow, our business -witli the Hoonahs fm- 

 ished, wc shall atnrt for Chilcat. 



9 p. M. 



We outspeeded the fog-bank, dodged the iceberas and cut 

 through the whirlpools safe])', and are now safely" ens(\)nsed 

 in a sheltered cove just to the ijastward of Point .Vtlolpbus, 

 -which to-night -^vill be our sentry and protect us from the in- 

 truai(jn o.' ;, ■^•■■i ^:- :-i,n strong winds. 



Well, I, 1. ally on the fins of freshlj'-cangbt haU- 



h'd ail. I II 1,1 .eliies of salmon, and we have .sat coni- 



J'ortubly Iwj Lv.i; ,ioui;,, .smoking and discussing the events 

 of to-day and the ]jlaus fr.r to-iuorrow. 



Upon one thing we are all agreed, au<l that is that comjnired 

 •with thatof the rest of Southeast iXlaska tbc scenery of Gla- 

 cier Bay is a failure, with but one redeeming point, and that 

 is that in seeing what there is of it we have almost a monop- 

 oly. 



There ai'e no high hills or pealis bordering its coast linci 



and such hillocks ns do exist are bleak and barren stretches 

 of rock and sand. 



Here and there in a gulch, a few stunted hemlocks have 

 sprung up and survived, through tlie shelter they have had 

 from the icy blasts, which, starting among the canyons of 

 the Pairweatlicr Alps, have swept over the glaciers and parta- 

 ken of their lempcralure. Elsewlierc no trees are seen. 



We saw a lew croiJljings of while stone and hastily pro- 

 nounced tbem (|u:Mtz. but on this point Diek soon undeceived 

 US; he had been there, and the stone was marble — about as 

 useful in Alaska as it might have been to Robinson Crusoe. 



We did not meet, a canoe or see any sign of animal life, ex- 

 cept a few sb.-igs and white-winged coots and now and then a 

 Mock of Bwitnmirig snipe. 



It was didl work, and the dullness was intensified by the 

 feeling that perhaps we bad made a mistake in abandoning 

 our exploration when we did. Tlic fog-bank which had 

 sciired us did not hx)k half so formidable when we found we 

 coidd outnm it, and when presently it began evidently to re- 

 cede and hitherto invisibh} points came again into view, we 

 who b.ad been too prudent were most unmercifullv cbuffed 

 by our meive advemiirous— but in no way resiionsibie for the 

 safety of the lioat— companions. The -advance into a new 

 country bad at Iciist excitement; our retreat over our old 

 tracks none. 



I think tliat for the first time in my life I had felt a little 

 of the sensation wliich sucli discoverers as Vancouver, Beh- 

 rings and others must have felt strongi v ortbey would never, 

 in their old-time ships, have stuck to tbeir work. There 

 is a novel sen,sation in seeirr'; what 01 hers liave not seen 

 and in treading where otliers liave not trod. 



This sensation, Ibough, was to us soiuewiiat reduced when 

 we learned from the Indhuis that we were not, as we Sup- 

 posed, the first white men whri liad penetrated the hay. 



Tliey toldusof two whocuii 



run, and in a canoe. They i|, ,; 

 no idea as to their identity : tii,- 

 think letm place them. Fnkss _ 

 " lived on the glaciers" was Pi 

 Geologist of Caiiforiiia, and bis _ 

 Yoimg, a missionarv who does noi 

 within the boundaries of 



1 know these two nia<l( 

 unknown region— Muir in search of his favorite game, the gla- 

 cier, and louug to spread the Gospel teachings. And in t'bus 

 recognizing our predecessors I add to the weight of om- regret 

 that we did not slay longer, go further and see more, and we 

 feelthat we have lost a grand opportimity by failing to visit 

 the liead of Glacier Bay. 



abuon began to 

 I n and 1 gained 

 I irbabitsand I 

 n, the man who 

 I Jluir, the State 

 anion the Rev. S. Hall 

 nfine his mission work 

 -nfort and civilization. 



oe trip to .some Idtherto 



r,]ohr 



«»J(SriJia 



In one of his lectures in San Francisco, Mnir describes 

 vividly certain grand glaciers which he had visited upon a 



canoeVoyage, which " having tbeir origin amid the canyons 

 of the lAiirweatbcr Alps, found their way to the sea in an un- 

 known liay. One of tbem was over three seven wide at tlio 

 moulb and mo\-ed a foot |ier hour, discharging icebergs over 

 a wall into the s^-i : ibis iee river is altout one uule deep. In 

 our journe}^ of iiv er seven Inmred miles in a canoe, fully one 

 hundred were madi- by imsUiiig our way through -waters lit- 

 'ly crowded with iee. U was a strange sight to see ice 

 as llowing through va'leys lined with c-vergreons and 

 bushes loaded^vitb bright berries hanging over the frozen 

 stream." And further : 



"Oiieside of this mighty rivei- was filled witbdeep chasms 

 and yawnnig abysses: on the other tbere was a smooth and 

 gentle slope, on which, starling fnmi the seti, five hundred 

 horsemen abreast could, without drawing rein, gallop fifty 



iles without an obbstacle " 



If his was the party who preceded us, and the above de- 

 scribes what they did and we didn't see, we cira but mourn 

 ^ver over oiu- lost cipporl unities If it be ever again my 

 L'ood fortune te, visit Glacier Bav, I shall ne.t leave untU I 



avc seen the whole of it. 



In the same lecture ijuoted the Professor attributes to 



glacial action the erosion of the shore line of Southeastern 



Alaska. 1 yield to bis superior knowledge, and accept this 



■ _'W B,s a siibstifule for my own, as given'lin my last, that this 



Iting throuiib was due to tides aud eurrents. A ;:lacier a 



,le deep and seven miles widi-, advancing al the rate of a 

 foot, an bom-, would hav" -p,.",'r.y ;,. .-in niost anything. I am 

 gelling very anxious tiiii i , - ■ ;,, see one"of these ice- 



vers. as are tdl of ni\ , , , < xcepting tbc Doctor, 



bo having been one o-f \i- --^i-,:' nMhe pioneer party that 

 last spring went, up to t'liileal, has, while passhig through 

 f.ynn Canal, seen so many of them that he now affects to lie 

 /I'jini on ilie suliject. and is evidentlv set up with his superior 

 knowledge, anil idTects to lie an unthority. 



But while 1 am thus discoursing on glaciers, of which as 

 yet I know nothing but by hearsay, my'log is "-ettinc bu- be- 

 hind band, I wilfbring it ii). to ilate, aiaf turn in." To re- 

 capitulate, we left Sitka on the Mth, remained at anchor in 

 Peril Straits until Tiih, reaihed Koieosok on that day; left 

 there on 17tb, and arrived at l^omtokkon tliat evening, and 

 the next morning i^mdertook to stand over to a large island 



about leu miles distant, on which was encamped the most 

 powerful chief of the Hoo-nahs ; but a fresh southciister got 

 up a little more sea than was healthy for a, small boat, and as 

 usual with a southeaster the -weather was tbiek ami nasty. So 

 after a fair try, we pid l.iaek, and about noon asam anchored 

 inKom-tok-kon, and whiled away a day in hiililnu lishing, 

 surveying, visiting Indians, aud for tlie (irsl time since Btarl- 

 ing on the trip, with a little .shooting. 



Along the edge of the advancnig tide, where its jilue watera 

 encountered the muddy outset from several streams -which 

 flowed into the bay, tb.; . !■ : :, 'i if kelp over -which the 

 phalaropcs (swimming 1 in myriads, and from 



these flocks ft goodly 111 , , viih us after each dis- 



charge of our breecb-Io.iik:-, .u.;! g...-e us promise of a de- 

 licious breiikfast, a promise lliough to the eye alone, for they 

 proved fi.sby .and tough. And a few ducks rewarded us for 

 a trip to the bead of the bay, where the waters were bbwk 

 with them feeding.- but as with the snipe, they "were fairer 

 to look nptin than to eat- all were lisby. 



August, 1'.)— Hrigbt, elear norlliv,-..jt weather, and at A. it. 



we started ba Tsehileh Islami --' - ■ -'■ v- irvrt KaU- 



chon-doo-sak. Ibe •• Ifyas Cloi ' ,, alis. 



Two boms' run carried us i.ieh is 



about seven miles long and lli'-„ ,,,,,.-, ,,:ried tO 



contain rich deposits of silver. 1 camjut vouch lor that, but 

 do know that it is of the rock in Tvhich silver is generally 

 found— namely, granite. On llie eastern s'de' there is a har- 

 bor, which we surveyed and named "Willoughby Cove," 

 after the prospeeti r of that name, who is the first -white man 

 who has m.ade his liome among the Iloo-nnh Indians, and 

 who by his conduct among them has done much toward 

 changing their feelinffs of liostility to friendship. 



The island, whicli is already of considerable importance, it 

 bemg tbc sunnner home of the head chief of the Hoo-nahs, 

 and whieh may in future prove of mote, if, as Diek slates, 

 there are '.vilbin its liinits rich dejjosits rf siver ore, we 

 naneid Shermiiu Island after the Hon'oral)ie Seiretaiy of the 

 Treasuiy, our business at this place' beina connected" with af- 

 fairs of the TYeasury Department. 



Tlie Indian ranch here is neit a hnu-e one, and probably not 

 over lifty natives spend tlielr summer at it. It— aaidl ranches 

 do— stretches along the I , 1, ,, 1 ted in the rear by forest, 

 and with a sal ni on ere i ; ; 1 _ 1 



Arriving at 8 a.m., il. i ,11 ,, i-i apparently deserted, 

 for the Indians are late users. Inn our howitzer's bark awoke 

 them, and very soon canoes were alongside. 



Arrangements for an interview were made, audin due time 

 Kah-hoo-doo-sak, Kiirklee and three other mti^gnatoa re- 

 ported, arrayed in thfa'r i.est— all in coats, pants, vvhiteshirls, 

 etc., etc. — quite as respeciai,>ly as were wc om^elves, and they 

 proved, in the interview which took plane, to be very intelli- 

 gent, reasonable and dignilicd racn. The old chief -was es- 

 pecially so, and while adtlressing us he -was so very eloquent, 

 lioth in words and gesi,ui-e. that it was interesting to listen to 

 aud watch him, although we could not uwlorsland until 

 Shukoir had turned his Kalosh into liussian, and Cozian had 

 iransformeil Ihe lattei- to English. He was llu! chief spokes- 

 man and presented to us verv clearlr the wrong done to his 

 tribe by the KngUsb Inibans; the rlesiie which actuated him 

 to refrain from hostilities, on acnunt of his promises to nie, 

 and the difficulties he met with in indueing bis youugmen to 

 obey him. lie spoke in a slow and digniUcef iiiarmer and 

 now iind then the other Tyhecs indicated their approval by a 

 long-drawn "ab-h-h." His story was a simple one, but was 

 denlly true. 



For generations the sea-otter hunting grounds, upon which 

 the Sim-sims had this spring and once before intruded, had 

 belonged to hts tribe and from it they drew their principal 

 subsistence. They had been told that the White Father had 

 given tbc ground to them and they appealed to me, acti-iig 

 for hiin, to maintain them in their rights. Three canocs of 

 the Sim-sims, carrying thirty men, had, with whisky, cor- 

 rupted such Hoo-nahs as were at the time on the grounds, 

 and with i-iQes slaughtered and frightened away the otters. 

 Upon the receipt of my letter he had informed them that tbc 

 Jameslo-nm would come and drive tbem away, and they had 

 then left, but -(vith the threat thai in tbc tall they -would re- 

 turn with sixty canoes and six hundred men arTd then they 

 would not leave for the .Tamestown, which hud uo power 

 over tbem. We gave tliem such as-urancea as we were able 

 of future protection, ami (1ms so delighted their hearts that 

 the old fellow adoptid me as bis " father " and Karklee said 

 I was a " warm hhiiikei given to him on a cold day," with 

 many other cqualli: I'striivaLtani, ex|iressioi)Sv 



At this interview we iviae ^ratitiird with the sight of the 

 prettiest Indian woman eitliei- of ns had over seen. She wa* 

 the young wife 01 Karklee— who is a tremendous big Indian 

 about lifty years old -and she was evidently a great pet of 

 bi.s, for by our permission she sat ihroiighoiit the talk on the 

 floor by his side and amuseel herself fuudUng with his hand, 

 which he relinquished to her. Ho seemed proud that we ad- 

 mired her. 



One of the wiiite Tyiiees expressed a willingnMSS to ex- 

 change seats with Karklee, but his wish could not be grati- 

 fied. 



This woman was about twenty years old and positively — 

 not comparatively— handsome.' Elderly Indian chiefs arc 

 somewhat JMormonish in their views, und in addition to the 

 old wife who has t,i I, w!. u: I -Aiih lii.ni, and through whom 

 their tribal col : 1 ned, and whom they 



keep at home. \-:: themselves witli a 



young one for n 1 



During this iioi/j > jmv j liimii :i-i 1 uslicd Kah-hoo-doo-sak. 

 Six months Itefore be had hail a dream which ho had com- 

 municated to the Shamans ,unl other wise men for all Inter- 

 pietation, which they had failed to give. 



I hadheard of this dream, but this he did not know. It was 

 to this effect: Fishing one morning iu the bay he dreamed 

 that he hooked a halibut, which on being drawn to the sur- 

 face proved to be a very beautiful (i.sh, very diHerent from 

 any he had ever seen. Just as he was about to kill and 

 pull it into his canoe something warned him not to do 90, 

 and instead he unhooked and let it go imharmed. 



'The UB-xt day the bay was full of these Jisli, which in every 

 respect proved far more valuable than the ordiniuy halibut, 

 and of which the Indians caught so many aud so easily that 

 they all got rich. 



I had heard of this dream as occurring to a one-eyed Old 

 Hoonah cliief, and while I was listening to Kah-hoo-doo-eak 

 it struck inc that this wiiR the dreamer, so when picturing to 

 him the great benelits which would come to them if Ihey ad- 

 mlLted and treated kindly the -whites, I sprung on him his 

 own [laialile of the lishcs, and wouurt up my ramarks which 

 I could see were telling, and had attracted attention as coin- 

 ciding with the dream, by saying, "Dick is your new halibut, 

 by your good triBtment of him you vfUl draw the whites to 

 you and together you will get rich." 



