64 



FOREST AND STUEAM. 



[Frbpjjart £6, 1880, 



hand. Again lie essayed to fell the toweling pine to 

 the same end, 1 »i 1 1 again were his labors stayed in their 

 :i,l a6w he found that a petty jealousy of a 



progr 



Dthold ) 



•rcisi 



Beinj 

 e was unabJe 

 while he ond 

 i jeal 



up proprietor 

 against his getting 

 with no influantia 

 mil from the lani 

 were grossly tradi 



ing daunted, however, In- now deter 

 here, So with the indomitable pluck of a 

 woodsman, as he is, he shouldered hie as 

 the lake, selected a (juiel spot where the t 

 the season would not too roughly visit 1. 

 a few well-timed (strokes laid a goodly n 

 denizens of Hie fores! low, and in a short 

 structed a raft of mighty logs, thorough] 

 getlier as only a skillful woodsman knoi 

 Upon this solid foundation, anchored off s 

 his logs and raised his cabin, and ere the 

 visited him in earnest we find him fcoasl 

 limbs over a cheery Maze that beamed frn 



Man has too "much reverence for genu 



,-.i to 

 niaste 



Noth- 

 mohor 

 back- 



larched uj 

 ierce blasts of 

 im, and with 

 umbe i- of the 



y secured to- 

 rs how to do. 

 ihore, he piled 

 winter snows 

 ing Ids weary 

 m his hearth, 

 epl 



fer it to go long unrewarded. Iiis indomitable perse- 

 veronce won him the respect of the land-owners, and 

 an acquaintance began which ended in a permit to erect 

 his lodge upon a small island at the upper end of the 

 lake, and last winter he gave the fimshinp; touch to his 



now roomy and cc 

 The island upon 

 are located contain 

 All thelmildings i 

 ding and rafters 



b0IM-ds. Ail of ll, 



and, there being 

 give appearance' o 

 edly cheerful Tl 



i front. ' 

 nd. 



rlcctl 



■ . 

 Allirl, his I 



3 about on 

 •e Framed c 

 and elaplv 

 timbers, b 

 finish in 



ildings (three i 

 and a half : 



nber) 



spruce stud- 



ely 



Thi 



di: 



th 



Mrs. . 



the en 



ny." 



and bi 



main 



room, 



A large open I'mnUlii 



its ample spare, while 



ten and shimmer in tl 



'oand a lial 



y of B: 

 ent 



gh. 20: 



' Mr. and 



Idii 



ihuild 



bs hi 



fa mi 

 ras farms, who attend to 

 run" the hotel for "John- 

 room occupy the first floor, 

 Lately in the rear of the 

 ort room, or guests' sitting 

 ma room even to the ridge. 

 ml. a mellow warmth into 

 lded rafters of spruce gtfs- 

 ig firelight. The appoint- 



ments are simple. A small writing desk fixed a _ 

 the wall, a half dozen shelves with a few hooks and 

 papers, the impedimenta of departed sportsmen, s sin!! 

 will, wash bowl and towelB, two small tables, a wooden 

 bench, a few home-made chairs and a swinging ham- 

 mock-are all n iratedwith actual drafts of 

 three large iron; cethe canjp was erected, 

 the large-: en taken by Henry 

 C, Eaveil done i I. |s".y, at Little- Hoys' Falls, and weighed 

 five and a half poundB. Farther bad;, but to one side of 

 this building, is the lodging camp. 30x30, havingsis com- 

 fortable rooms on the lower floor, and six beds, all in one 

 room, in the attic. 



gh tin- long and drearv winter of *ffi and ! 79 



"Johnny," wit bj one assistant, toned and struggled 



with his p . ingno friendly lace but Ids com- 



panion 's from tall till spring. Hoards and I iiubcr were 

 all wrought by hand, wiih the aid of ax. saw and plane. 

 To appreciate the task one must see the whole affair, 

 -which is a marvel of handiwork. But i will not-weary 

 fcl er with description, only simply add Camp Cari- 



,dge I 



bou is tl ■,;able I 



the wilderness. Somewhat i 

 living here are higher than i 

 day, or $10 per week. A goo 

 always invites the hungry tjshi 

 Venison, bam and eggs, gridd 

 tea, coffee, oto., etc. I must 

 kind word for "Johnny," He 

 into the woods with. Eleven 

 forest primeval have given hi 

 all that is useful to a 

 intelligent, and possessed of 

 draft, and wl.a: ho doesn't lcn 

 the learning. Trapping in wi 

 ing in summer, have given 1 

 country and a store of usefi 

 oughly honest, reliable and U 

 The points of interest ab( 

 the lake proper, about the 

 plentiful, and may be taken 

 ranging fr 

 lake itself 



, being $2 per 

 plenty on it, 



i fare a's trout, 

 maple syrup, 

 Cor saying a 



id..- I ever Weill 

 irdsbip ill the 

 knowledge of 



He i9 i 



:>.l...."lll\ V.-. 



bout it i 

 . and fish 

 a familia 

 .owledge 



scarce worth 



ng and Imnt- 



niv u'ub the 



He is thor- 



Parmachen.ee are, first, 



als of which trout are 



quantities in the season. 



.. a quarter up to six or seven pounds. The 



about three miles long by two wide, and al- 



ooutb 



of the 



I) nvei 



. The 



f only 



six or 



foot is 



a deep 



gregat 



1. We 



;er tha 



n half 



rely surrounded by mountains, whi 

 studded with trees and thick undergrowth, 

 upon a still day a most charming pictnn 

 promising fishing point is Little BoyB' Fall: 

 from Camp Caribou, viz., one mile to the i 

 inlet (the MegaUoway), and I wo miles ti] 

 "Falls" an- a small affair, being a drop o 

 eight feet over a broken ledge," but at the 

 pool where large trout love to con 

 tried our Jlics here, but got nothing larg 

 pound. 



At the outlet of the lake, one and a half miles from 

 eamj). the fishing is fine in June and September, and large 

 trout are frequently taken hero. The largest taken by 

 our party w. ighed about two pounds, 



Farther dow n the stream, about a mile below the out- 

 lei. Black Cat Brook empties into the river and trout are 

 abundant, but not so large as above: however, they are 

 often token weighing from one to two pounds. 



Our party remained at Danforth's five days. and. al- 

 though we bad ir-iui at every meal, we had to stop catch- 

 ing, because roe 1 could not eat them fast enough. 



l'arties visiting Danforth's, if they have a taste for 

 something wilder, will find good hunting and fishing in 

 the back country. Trout, deer, and all kinds of game be- 

 ing plenty ten or twelve miles back. ,u- up l be Megallo- 

 ■wav River. Rump Pond, eight miles upstream is a fa- 

 voriti -camping ground, and parties can get titled out at 

 Danforth's edition, 1 would remark in pass 



m g ib:.: leehenee, parties need not tak 



.lever I'm camping oul. lor they 



can be bad at Danforth's, From the Rangeley Chain to 



Varna ichi nee is now but a day's journey, however you 

 may gOj unli I you prefer to idle I y the way, and try the 

 favorite fishing pools which abound along the river banks. 

 After a pleasant tarry of live days at Parmechenee, we 

 turned oii pr»r4> 



At 8.30 a.m., Friday. Aug, 2f)th, we bade adieu to the 



across the cany, This carry is called five miles; but I 

 have walked over a great many and value my opinion, 

 and 1 enter it- upon my journal as eight miles. We were 

 all prettv good walkers and loaded light, and were three 

 hours and' live minutes making it. This, however, in- 

 cluded thirty-five minutes in stops, making the actual 

 time two hours and thirty minutes. En route we oame 

 upon a flock of partridges and bagged the lot— seven. 

 We could not help it. they would not fly: and wo shot 

 ihein down in cold blond, not for sport, but becauso wc 

 wanted 1 hem tor our supper. 



Much has been said about this being a bad carry, bin 

 we all pronounced it an exceedingly good one. There is, 



now and then a steep declivity, but they arc not many, 

 The underbrush is all cut away, the pathwell-h 



butfewroc.ks beset your footstep-. ; 

 never encounter a worse. 



Beaching the banks of Cupsuptic River about 12 M., we 

 waited thirty minutes before our guides camo up, It 

 should be borne in mind that they carried about seventy- 

 live pounds of luggage each, which may explain their 

 delay. 



It rained quite hard at spells while crossing, and we 

 were somewhat wet when w e got over. We built a fire, 

 however, and as the rain held up we got pretty nearly dry 

 by the time our guides arrived. We found our boats in 

 waiting to take US down tin; river: and I will remark by 

 the way that Ban forth keeps boats constantly at both 

 ends off this carry for the accommodation of sportsmen 

 going and coming. 



Alior a hasty lunch, which all did ample justice to, wo 

 shifted OUT cargo and poled our wav down the narrow 

 and shallow Cupsuptic a distance of eight miles, where 

 we encountered rapids, and leaving our boats at the head 

 of the same, again shouldered our luggage and made a 

 carry ol a half mile to the foot of the rapids, where other 

 and better boats awaited us. At this point- the rain came 

 heavily upon us, and we were glad to avail ourselves of 

 a Im, odjy tent which a brother sportsman lis . 

 here, but who at Ibis lime was: temporarily av.a 

 5 i-.i.. seeing no signs of clearing weather, we donned 

 our rubber coats and pushed our boats into the current. 

 The stream now becomes wider and deeper, and our 

 guides ber.l to their oars. Shortly after starting the rain 

 came in torrents, enlivened occasionally with thunder 

 and lightning. One of our party discharged his gun. 

 winch burst a cloud in our unrhediate vicinity, and its 

 contents threatened to deluge us for a irw moments, but 

 by dint of bailing we kept afloat. From the foot of the 

 rapids to Indian Bock the distance is eight miles, viz.. 

 four to the head of Cupsuptic Lake and four more across 

 it to Indian Rock. 



Two hours' pulling took us to Camp Kennebago at In- 

 dian Rock, which is situated about one mile up Kennebago 

 stream, Where it and Rangeley si ream unite to empty 

 their waters into ( fupsuptic I ,.ike. The view from the foot 

 of the rapids to Cupsuptic Lake is very delightful, wild. 

 romantic. 



Cupsuptic River for most of the way is very narrow 

 and very crooked, more so than the MegaUoway, which 

 is so crooked that the water sometimes forgets which wny 

 lo flow. The channel isshallowand narrow', and 

 we had difficulty in getting through the nan ■ 



stream, we saw multitudes of deer tracks, and in one in- 

 stance those of a caribou. Bucks, too, are quite numer 



oits iii its waters, but it requires great care to get within 

 shooting distance. 



Having reached Indian Rock our journey is nearly 

 over. Camp Kennebago is owned and run bv an associa 

 tion of sportsmen who love to angle, and who believe 

 tnaytheir tribe inrease !— in obedience to law of fish and 

 game. They have two large buildin-.-sdevot, Uothuir com- 

 fort (one just finished), besides one for guides and other 

 necessary out-buildings. The Superintendent, l '. S. luch- 

 arilsoii, remains here the entire year and looks to then- 

 affairs, lb- is a genial, good-natured souk with proper 

 gifts to fill the position to which ho has been . 

 Of medium height, with beaming face and pi 

 and long gray whiskers and niou-taeh.-. he U- 

 Puritan— a Aides Standish as it were. He greets yon 

 with a happy smile and happier Word, and .luring your 

 slay his .piamt remarks furnish you an untold final of 



( amp Kennebago is open lo visitors during the season, 

 in June and September, when it is devoted to 

 members of the club and their friends, The regular 

 charge lor board is $1.50 per day, and less bv the week, 

 and they set the best table in the wilderness. * The camp 

 is situated about twenty rods from the confluence Of Ken- 

 nebago and Rangeley streams, and some of the finest fish- 

 ing hereabouts is at this junction whero the waters unite. 



Leaving Indian Rock to complete the lake circuit we 

 pass down the river on the little steamer Oquossoc into 

 Cupsuptic Lake, thence into the Mooselucmaguntic, 

 making our first stop at Souh.-'s camp, about two miles 

 from Indian Rook, a comfortable lodge looking out upon 

 the lake, and whose doors are always open — for a consid- 

 eration—to the spoilsman. 



Leaving Smile's the steamer makes its way across the 

 lake, eleven miles, when it enters a narrow outlet a mile 

 in length and finally brings up at Upper Bam, where a 

 small hotel and a half dozen ol her buildings look out 

 upon ibis narrow neck of water. The fishing at tins dam 

 is often very fine, and while we were stopping at the 

 rock Marshall Whitney, guide and tyer of Hie-., of Upton, 

 took three good trout, weighing respectively six and a 

 half, five and a half, and lline pounds. 



A carry of one-fourth of a mile takes UStotbi lead of 

 Lake Molechunkcmunk. where the .-teamer Welokene- 

 baedol makes its connection with floe upper lakes, Leav- 

 ing Upper Bam the steamer passes down the lake above 

 named through a narrow neck of water about a mile in 

 length and into Lake Welokennebacook, or more often 

 perhaps called the Lower Richardson.. From Upper Dam 

 to Middle Lain is aboul . . 



1 have now given the complete, circuit, bavin 

 I returned to Middle Lam ; and 1 bavelil 

 to add to conclude this sketch of the Rangeley sec- 

 tion, 



Coming in ma Andovei we determined logo out via 



m, 1", fin Indian Rock across the carry lo 



- one and three-fourths miles. Travelers, 



walk and their luggage goes across on abUCkhi ' I ' 

 Si. The steamer runs pn the i: rday, Sun- 



days included, and leaves foot of the lake at lb a.m. 

 I com i his point to Rangeley < "n\ is six miles, which the- 

 liule steamer MoUychmifa muiik makes in aboul - 

 arriving about ii o'clock. Tbest ngi lej City; 



however. : . A\ •_> o'olock, thi i 01| ' i ■ 



time for dinner. There are two hotels here, the Range* 

 ley Bake i louse and tin- former is much 



'lie larger. Rangeley has a population of about 500 in- 

 habitants. 

 After touchingat Rangeley the steainor oontini 



ale, at the head of i he lake, tin rnilet di tanl 

 and passengerB can slop at either point lor dinner. 

 '. - -. two Or thret bouse, Rangeley Lakp 



is considered the handsomest of the lakes, but Ll dt e cioi 



3 P.M. you soon (uv) yourself upon 

 a very hilly and somewhat steep road— now up, now 

 down", but affording a very Fine view of I he sui-rounding 

 country, which presents on either hand lofty mountains 

 and deep valleys, Four \<--^::n^!i is necessarily slow* 

 especially as the horses upon this route are none I ! " 

 best. 



Four miles an !. 

 ping place alter leaving Rangel.-v Cit v and Greenvale is 

 Beech Hill, or half-way house, where v. 



■ from Greenvale and twelve from Rangeley, 

 About-", p,m. we renewed our journey, and ■ tit 

 P.H, we drove up to the B at Pbilipps, Me*i 



nine miles from Beach EE11 and twenty-one from 

 ley. A word for the] -- PhikpptS 



has a population of abou lOrts twoor 



three good hotels. 



Toreach Farmmgton in time for the train (8. i 

 you must leave PhUipps early ; bo at 4,30 v 



ad at a \.:-i. we weresmoking our pipes on the 

 .;.- Mm was putting in an appearance; 

 I Strong, a small township, w hero 

 we crossed Bandy River upon a suspension brid) 



rough and hilly road. . It ivenpto the depot, 



com Earn? 

 ington to Portland is eighty-four nil . and tfie train ar- 



'. giving thirteen minutes to 

 with Boston and Main,- or Eastern tor Boston, The 

 trainsrun ■ 



wish to take the Boston and Maine you change at Boston 

 and Mai tion. 



For con-.- rence and for the scrap 



givebelow a table of distances, limeand I 

 'armechenee and return : — 



Distance. 



Boston to Portia 



Middle Dain to Ana of UnVbagog 



(curry) 



Ann o£ Umbttgog- ti} brown's Land- 



• Uogailo- 



n> " Sp-ulT" i-'JintV 

 - -- .■!-. ,. ■ ■:,. i . 



'ijni-iu-lliV t'.'iiiiiii.. 



..-"ik 



\ern>s ruiisuptie • ■ 



l-.V Ol l'll|.-ll|.;e 



( ariv:iri,iillil Falls 



b <,! Cupsuptic 



Head of Cu'jisuptio Laito io ! rullai, 



qf MoOEciucniug untie to CTppei 



i- 1 >:, in i BXQ to Moilyeinuii;. 



I..:le- :■- UailKClC'J 



lauisi'lcy i" i ■ ■■■■ ■■■ ■■ 



ll h Hill. .. 



Uccch Hill to Philips 



C;l|-|,mi(.'l.,|l.... 



fainiiiiKleu to Pi.i-lliuul 



u 



Time, 



a 91 



(1 Fill i 



I liil , 



ii l» 



40 



I DO 

 30 





I | 811 



50 



i no 



:.- rn 



I en 



3d 



S mi 



I ■ ■■!. 



Ui ii. 





la- ludlng bnseaKc. 



Richardson:— Leaves Middle Lam Cor l pperDt t 



leaves OpperDani for .Middle Bam. 10 a.m.; Ii 



die Bam lor South Ann. h Arm to, 



Mi.i.ll, Lain. 12 to I P. M.: leaves Wifld 



Bam. 1 to -J I-. M.; leaves Upper Dam ft I Midi le Lain, 



■I i-.m.. connecting on each trip at Upper Lam with 



... etc. 



OnMoost-liHinagiintic - - ithe -"< 



leaves Indian Rock lor I 'pi i r Dam, 

 i lam lor Indian B 



lg with the stet 



On the rjmhagogi Tm - " 



the st, aniei- !, a-- ■ Can al I ■■: 



•s .\. h.: leaves .Middle Lain Can 

 Landing, 'J A. :,!., leaves Brown's Lain.-- for Upi 

 1 P. M. 



On Rangi Rangeley Ontlg 



for < ire:), 



i f oi Rangeley Outlet at 

 daily. 



l 'have now. patient reader, G I which I 



i 

 guide boot contains, yet the tvaut ol 



diced wla-n contemplal : 



its aid you may. with patience, ealculai 



ay trip you may 

 desire. Qi passi 

 can easily make a two wi 

 ■ i I to this by • 

 by camping ou1 pan of the timi , ■ opl i tata 

 n i io f of an article 

 -t and KTiuiAM a few 



