Atotot 11, 1881.] 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



27 



an excursion ticket, to Colebrook, N. H., unci return via Con- 

 cord, Boston & Montreal R. R,; take the stage at Colebrook 

 through Dixville Notch to Errol Dam, Rragg's Hotel; thence 

 by steamer up the Vfag'illoway River to lirown's farm ; from 

 there by private conveyance to Fred Flint's camp at l lie head 

 ofEsohos Falls. There yon will find guide F. L. Mason, 

 Who will take you by boat up the stream, twenty-five miles, 

 in Flint's Landing at the fool of the falls, and after thirty 

 minutes' walk you will lie here where I now sit, and you will, 

 in season, find a good, hot supper of moose or deer steak 

 awaiting you, which 1 have no doubt you will eujoy. 



8. H. B. 



FROM M008EHEAD LAKE TO THE MAIN ST. JOHN. 



IN '1HKEK CARTS-PART 111. 



ON i he morning of June 4th we bade adieu to our log 

 camp and hastened on our journey. A pull of thirteen 

 miles took us to 



DEPOT FAlOf,, 



before described. Here we tarried for an hour with a veri- 

 table Robinson Crusoe with his little dog, although he 

 answered to the name of John Harvey. He and his dog are 

 the sole occupants of tne forest hereabouts, la a little log 

 hut he lives, and since last fall ho had seen no human face 

 till the day before we came, when a party of three came 

 across from "Seven Islands" on the St. John, but no party 

 had been through over the route we came. We regaled our- 

 selves with fresh milk, learned from him that there was a log 

 camp some seventeen miles ahead, procured some corned 

 beef and some salt and eggs of him, and resumed our 

 journey. A matter of twelve miles took us through another 

 section of the Allegash Hiver, into 



SQUARE LAKE, 



"and two more trough it, into the third section of the Alle- 

 gash- 



From here (the foot of Squ ire Lake) it, is throe miles to 

 said log camp. (As log eampu are very important to a 

 ■Sportsman in bis jounicyiugs I have been very particular to 

 locate all I am familiar with.) It is a comfortable camp, 

 except the roof has been removed from one side to furnish 

 maierial to build an oat-hin hard by ; the remaining roof, 

 however, is tight and in good condition. It is on the left 

 bank, about fifteen rods from the shore, at the foot, of the second 

 pitch of water after leaving Square Lake, opposite a big eddy, 

 and may be seen from the river if you look sharp. During 

 the night, while camping here, I was awakened by Newt. 's 

 ■melodious vo'ce, shouting, "Sam! Sam! Saml" each time 

 louder. I thought at first he had the. night-horse. Then I 

 heard Alf mutter, " Dod butler it." What ails him ? Sam, 

 .however, awoke finally (but I deelare 1 thought he, never 

 ■would), and grunted out, "What you want?" "What's 

 that gnawing?" answered Newt. By this time we were all 

 ;fo,wake, and distinctly heard a loud gnawing outside the door. 

 "Something trying to get our stores," shouted Ned, as he 

 jgrabbed the rifle, and " Dod butter it" lighted a match. As 

 •the match was struck a large rabbit skipped lively away, 

 but he was uot Hie disturber of our peace ; ou'side was a big 

 hedgehog, trying to get at our salt ; but before Ned could 

 ^et a bead on him he got ! 



The next m .ruing,' June 5, was lowery, with occasional 

 light rain, which continued in light showers till the middle 

 T/f the afternoon. We, however, broke camp at an early 

 hour. About a mile and a half below, on the right bank, 

 we passed 



MUBQTJAOOOK STREAM, 



which affords fine trout fishing, and some three miles below 

 this is 



FIVK FINGER BKOOK, 



which empties in on the left. The latter stream I have never 

 seen on any published map. It deserves attention as fur- 

 nishing fine fishing ground in the summer and fall. From 

 our camp of lastnighi it is about twelve miles to the border of 

 civilization, which announces itself by a little log hut on the 

 left bank, occupied by Joseph Gilbear. We were advised 

 this is not the most promising spot to stop at, but 



FINI.BY MO'LK-LLAN'S, 



•Whose house is somewhat larger and whose possessor is rich ! 

 which means uerefrmi two to three thousand dollars. McC's 

 js a Tew rods below on the same bank. 



From this point to Allegash Falls it is about three miles, 

 imd if a lew scattered log houses along the bank of a river 

 constitute civilization, then indeed we are out of the wilder- 

 ness, but I confess it hardly seems so to me. Between hero 

 and the Falls are four log houses or huts, three on the left 

 "jPnd one on the right bank. The water hereabouts is quiet, 

 pi occasionally quick water, but after leaving McClellan's 

 it is mostly quick till you reach Allegash Carry. We tarried 

 at McU.'s for half au hour or so and chatted with the old 

 folks while we warmed our shins before a huge cookiug 

 stove, for it. was quite cold iu the humid atmosphere outside. 

 About noon we continued our journey, and made the run 

 of three miles to 



AI.T.EGASH CARRY 



in thirty-three minutes. At the head of the carry we got up 

 a fine dinner of corned beef hash, and then dragged our bateau 

 over the carry (a fair road) sonic forty rods on a wooden 

 Bled or skid which is kept there for that purpose. 



"1I1E FAT.T.S OP THE AXLECASn " 



are decidedly picturesque and impressive. The river nar- 

 rows up at this point and discharges a large volume of water 

 through a very narrow gorge cut through a solid ledge. The 

 fall is directly precipitous only some thirty or forty feet, but 

 it has a final fall of some sevcuty feet, covering a space of 

 some fifteen rods in its whole decline, reminding one stronoiv 

 of Trenton Falls. 



Below the falls we again emharked. There are several 

 pitches of water between the fall and the St. John, but 

 none dangerous, only a little lively. There is much shoal 

 water also, and we scraped and bumped along at times, but 

 got over them without much trouble. About 5 p. ir. we 

 made our junction with the 



MAIN ST JOHN, 



where the whole feature of the country changes, The banks 

 of the St. John from here down are mostly cleared, and 

 from scattered huts you come to small settlements and ex- 

 tensive farms, with fenced lots, growing crops and waving 

 grain. 



Before leaving the Allegash I must note two or three 

 scenes (],,,, i m pn» B8ec [ ua u]j strikingly, which was the sudden 

 falling off of the river bed at times when a long, straight 

 stretch of a quarter of a mile presented itself before us. 

 Sometimes it would appear we were riding down a steep hill 

 on the ice, so apparently motionless was the current. This 

 WW especially noticeable at the mouth of the Allegash. At 



first we thought if an optical illusion, but we found it not to 

 be so. At this point the decline of the bed of the river is very 

 great, and the water runs with exceeding swiftness, yet the sur- 

 face is almost unbroken, and from the upper point you look 

 down the incline as you would if you were sliding down hill, 

 and the sensation of running this quiet water is a peculiar but, 

 pleasant one. About half a mile below the junction of the Alle- 

 gash— on the St. John— is the worst pitch of water w T e en- 

 countered on the whole trip. It is some twenty rods long, 

 quite sharp and choked with rocks on every side so there is 

 hardly a channel anywhere. 



The birches went ahead and chose the south shore, which 

 happened to be the proper channel, hard in shore. 



Expecting to find the best water, we took the very middle. 

 We had just entered the seething curront when a native 

 shouted to us from the shore, " You can't act through there, 

 the channel is on this shore." This was indeed pleasant to 

 contemplate, dashing as we were rapidlj' toward rocks 

 which threatened destruction. " What shall we do, John ? " 

 said Sam. John paused for a second only, for time was in- 

 deed precious, when he replied, " I guess he's right : I don't 

 see any way through here." 



" Shove her across, then, with all your might, if you 

 get a chance, and try for the channel," shouted Sam. 



And a moment after John headed her for the soul h shore, but, 

 alas ! it was of no use, wc were hemmed in. " It's no use," 

 ejaculated John, "we must go through straight, somehow." 

 At the same moment, Thump!— and we brought up on top 

 of a rock; for an instant our staunch ba'eau shivered and 

 trembled, while the maddened waters piled up around us ; 

 but, thanks! they proved our salvation, for they finally got 

 under us and lifted us off the rock, and we took a new start 

 aud ran safely out of the vortex. 



I learned that evening that a boatman was drowned on that 

 pitch last spring. As an Irishman would remark, "The 

 next time I run that pitch I'll go around it" 



A mile lower down and you reach 

 .tohn casey'b, 

 where sportsmen always tie up if they delay here, and where 

 we tied up for the night. His house is on the left bank. 



They make no pretensions to accommodations, and we 

 found them poorly off in the way of provisions. Could givs 

 us pork and potatoes, but ham, eggs, bread — no. We ruight 

 borrow their stove, and they could furnish a little milk and 

 some butter. So Ned pulled off his coat, aud while talking 

 honey to a pretty French servant girl, h" got up a good sup- 

 per ; but, O ! such biscuit as he made with milk. 



" O, I'm what you call him, that rises on top the milk," 

 he replied, when we praised those puffy biscuit. 



But, patient reader, I will not tire your patience much 

 loDger ; I have been prolix, I know, but I have endeavored 

 to give An accurate history of this trip in detail, that you 

 might profit by it if you should ever desire to make it. The 

 distances and other statements of facts are as true as my 

 poor ability can furnish. 



In a few words I will take you to the eud of our trip. 



June 6 we resumed our journey down the St. John, reach- 

 ing 



ST. FRANOIH PLANTATION, 



ten aud a half mileB from Carey's, in two and a half hours, 

 passing through two or three strong rapids, but plenty of 

 water, aud drew our boat ashore at Martin Savage's, nearly 

 opposite St. Francis River, where we hoped to get dinner. 

 It is a large farm, with a large and pretentious house and in- 

 viting surroundings and where formerly travelers were 

 heartily received and provided for, but Mr. Savage was away 

 and the lady of the house said they had not entertained of 

 late, as they had a large family of workmen to care for, so 

 we re-embarked and stopped off at 



ROBERT OONNOli's, 



three miles below, on the left bank. They did not keep pub- 

 lic, house, but would get us a dinner; and they did— a good 

 one— but would make no charge. We, however, remem- 

 bered the servants. 



Mr. Connor is quite well off and very hospitable, it is said, 

 but he was away on a " drive." He is building quite an ele- 

 gant house here, for these parts, and may he live long to en- 

 joy it. 



Leaving Connor's, log-houses are more frequent and small 

 settlements appear. Seven miles below a small red church 

 upon the left bank attracted our attention, so picturesque was 

 it, nestled among the rude habitations about, with green 

 fields setting it off to good advantage. From Red Church to 



PORT KKNT 



is five miles and mostly quick, but good, water. We made 

 the distance in a little less that one hour. Fort Kent is on 

 the right bank and consequently in Maine. On the opposite 

 bank is Middle St. Francis, a Canadian settlement. We 

 stopped at Samuel Stevens' hotel in Fort Kent, a jolly place 

 to tie up to, with comfortable beds aud a good tahle. Fort 

 Kent is very prettily situaied at the confluence of Fish River, 

 which makes in from the south, aud the St. John. It is quite 

 a thrifty little village, with a store, post-office and Catholic 

 church. We found the church open and entered. It was a 

 rustic affair, but somehow impressed me wonderfully. In 

 the body of the church were rude wooden seats, without cush- 

 ions, paint or ornament of any kind. A rough stairway, 

 without railing, leads to the gallery, which we mounted, and 

 found there only a few coarse benches. A rope leading to a 

 primitive belfry hung idly by, bs if to tempt one to set the 

 tongue of the little bell a-wagging. but we profaned not the 

 solemn stillness that reigned within. Descending the stairs 

 we approached the altar, around which imitation wax can- 

 dles stood ready for lighting. Here and there hung cheap 

 prints of the Saviour nailed to the cross, Mary and the 

 saints. With noiseless step we retreated from this hallowed 

 precinct, closing carefully the heavy door behind us, that 

 we might, not disturb the holy silence that prevailed. We 

 next visited the Block HouBe, hard by, which plays an im- 

 portant part in the history of Fort Kent. It was built some 

 forty years ago as a fort, in anticipation of a war with 

 Great Britain, over the boundary line between Maine aud 

 Canada, but the matter w r as finally settled by treaty in 1843 

 without bloodshed. It is built of heavy timber, with loop- 

 holes for rifle aud cannon, and is situated on an emineuce 

 overlooking the St. John and Fish rivers aud near their junc- 

 tion. At 1 ort Kent we sold our bateau, agreeing to deliver 

 it at Edmundston. 



At five the next morning, June 7, we resumed our journey 

 in order to reach Edmundston, the terminus of the New 

 Brunswick R. R., in time for the train, which we were told 

 left at 10:30, as we were also advised it would require five 

 hours to reach there— twenty miles. We, however, did 

 some good pulling, and reached there in three and one-half 

 hours— viz., at 8:30, and were there informed the train would 

 leave at 11:80, thus giving us three hours to spare. The ride 

 from Fort Kent to Edmundston comprises one of the most 



interesting sections of the whole trip. The wilderness haB 

 now disappeared from the banks of the river, and log huts 

 have given place to more modern structures, although many 

 rude affairs are still frequent. The soil along its borders, 

 however, is rich and fertile and picturesque in appearance, 

 and I was more than once reminded of the Rhine of Father- 

 land as I saw it ten years ago. Much of the way, on either 

 side, the land is level for a distance back from the borders of 

 the river, when it gradually slopes upward till it rises with a 

 graceful incline several hundred feet above the bed of the 

 river. In many places along it is entirely cleared of wood 

 and subdued into tillage, pasture and mowing lands. 



The most charming scene which engaged my attention 

 along this section wai at a point on the south bank of the 

 river called 



PRENonviu.K, 

 where near the bank is a small settlement, a rustic village 

 with a neat little church and open spire. In the background 

 is a long, high range entirely subdued, and mostly devoted 

 to grass and grain, thus presenting different shades of green 

 to the eye. From the summit of the range to the village, 

 long stretches of fences appear, running mostly one way 

 only—/, p.., from the top down, as is chiefly the case on the 

 Rhine. 



A solemn quiet prevailed as we passed this secluded spot, 

 giving the whole picture a dreamy aspect, which was at once 

 charming aud impressive. There are but few rapids between 

 Fori, Kent and Edmundston, and iu this respect the trip 

 grows less exciting aud more monotonous, although the 

 scenery all along is inviting to the lover of nature. 



We encountered some logs en route, but got through with- 

 out difficulty. 



BDMTTNDSTON, 



Little Falls, or Madawaska, as you please, are one and the 

 same place, and is situated on the left bank of the St. John 

 and Tight bank of the Madawaska at the confluence of the 

 Madawaska River, which comes in from thenorlh, and the 

 St. John. The railroad station is on the. same side of the 

 St. John, but the left bank of the Madawaska. The village 

 is small, with a hotel which is passable — i. «., you had better 

 pass it. At Edmundston we bade good-bye to the river, de- 

 livered our bateau, got our canoes and luggage to the station, 

 and at 11:30 started for G-raud Falls, thirty-nine miles dis- 

 tant. The road is a very rude affair, and slow time a neces- 

 sity. We made the distance in three and one-half hours, or 

 about twelve miles an hour. At 



CHANT) PALLS, N. B., 



are two hotels, the Grand Falls Hotel and the American. 

 We stopped at the former, which is the better, and which 

 we found exceedingly good, considering their facilities. 

 Grand Falls is quite a romantic place, with a population of 

 some 800, on elevated ground overlooking the falls, which 

 are some seventy -five feet high and quite picturesque. Below 

 the falls is a suspension bridge for ordinary travel, from which 

 you get a fine view of the falls aud river below. Below the 

 falls is a deep chasm'with beetling cliffs on either side. On 

 the we-t side is a rustic stairway leading to a small ledge 

 overlooking ihe river. In the summer season Grand Falls is 

 a favorite resort of summer boarders. A great drawback to 

 an American would be the want of facilities for reaching it, 

 for, while they have a railroad, they make short runs and 

 long stops. From Edmundston they run to Aroostook, 

 twenty miles below here, fifty-nine miles in all. returning 

 as far Grand Falls the same day. You reach Aroostook 

 at 4:20, and must remain here over night. At 9:30 

 next morning you leave Aroostook and reach Wood- 

 stock about 2 p. m., where you must remain until 

 the next morning, when you leave at a. m., and thus 

 reach Bangor in time to take the evening train for Bos- 

 ton, hence three days from Grand Falls to Bangor, 252 miles ! 

 So tedious are they that even the Government sends its mails 

 by a one-horse wagon, which runs night and day, and thus 

 beats the railroad one day out of three 1 



In our haste to get along we took a wagon at 6 a. m., 

 June S, from Grand Falls to Aroostook, eighteen miles for 

 $10, reaching there at 9 a. m. in time for the train, and ar- 

 rived at Woodstock that night, stopping at the Gibson 

 House, which is the best in the place. 



At 9 a. m., June 9, we left W., reaching McAdam Junc- 

 tion on the E. & N. A. R. R. at noon. At the station we 

 got a miserable dinner. At 6:15 we reached Bangor and took 

 a coach to "Bangor House," where we got a first-rate sup- 

 per. At 7:45 we tookasleeper for Boston, arriving there at 

 6:30 the next morning. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



And now, patient reader, after the manner of a minister 

 toward the end of a long-winded sermon, I will draw, my 

 discourse to a close. 



Regarding the beat time to make this trip : If the object- 

 ive feature is hunting and fishing, decidedly September and 

 October are the better months, as there are few or no flics ; 

 fly-fishing is in its prime and both large and feathered game 

 is more readily found. Partridges are very plentiful ai this 

 season. Running the rivers is not as easy then as in the 

 spring, unless the fall rains have raised the streams ; yet 

 there will be no great difficulty in that direction. As to the 

 place to rendezvous for the best hunting for large game, 

 Eagle, Churchill and Long Lakes stand pre-eminent, al- 

 though there is not a mile of territory between Chamberlain 

 Lake and the mouth of the Allegash that does not abound in 

 large game. Deer, which a few years ago were almost extinct 

 in Maine, have latterly been increasing rapidly and now are 

 quite plenty. Trout, it is hardly necessary to add, are abun- 

 dant, at the mouths of nearly every stream that flows into 

 the main river, as also in the still waters about the falls and 

 rapids. 



As to provisions it is better to take some kinds with you as 

 can get a better quality and variety at home than on the 

 lakes. This we found notably so regardiug salt pork, au al- 

 most indispensable article in the woods. There is p'enty 

 there, but not nearly so choice as we carried in. The same 

 is true of meal, hardtack, coffee and tea. Onions are some- 

 times difficult to get en route, and they play no mean part 

 at one's dinner ; in chowder they are a sine qua non, ; while 

 cut up in vinegar they are a great appetizer (although per- 

 haps a superfluity in that respect). Potatoes, good butter, 

 flour, sugar, etc., can be procured readily at Greenville, but 

 after leaving there they aro more uncertain — especially but- 

 ter, make sure of that at Greenville. Sugar should always 

 be taken in the lump, as it never wastes in this shape. If 

 you wish lemons get them at Bangor, where you can also if 

 you wish get everything. 



After leaving Greenville we got short of butter and were 

 placed on short rations with that, article for several dayB. 

 Potatoes, pork, etc., however, we found at 'Suncook and 

 Chamberlain farm. As to the quantity of provisions to take, 

 that is a conundrum, as appetiteB are so uncertain,. and while 



