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FOREST AND STREi^ 



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SIX WEEKS ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE 

 YELLOWSTONE. 



AUGUST FIRST found Ned and myself leaving the 

 Union Pacific train at Rawlins. We bad abeady en- 

 gaged Tom Sun and Lew Sinimorids, two well known Rocky 

 Mountain hunters, as guides, with eight ponies— fi 

 saddle and four for p*ck animals. As there was a space of 

 sixty edd miles between Rawlins and Tom's ranch 0" the 

 Sweetwater, where we were to make our headquarters, it be- 

 hooved us to make due. preparations for this little journey, 

 being ''tender-feet." The considerate Tom had anticipated 

 our tender-footed condition, and provided a lumber wagon 

 to transfer us to his ranch; but, scorning the hinted appella- 

 tion and the farm wagon, we ordered our traps unci pro- 

 visions to be placed therein, and, mounting our ponies, rode 

 gaily and triumphantly out of the village into the wilderness. 

 Torn was the only ranchman between Rawlins and the 

 North Pole, as far as we could discover during a six week's 

 tramp through the vast ranges of mountains lying between 

 the headwaters of the Yellowstone and the Noiib Platte, 

 What » novel and exhilarating ride was that, tfie clear 

 bright atmosphere and views of the rugged and peculiar 

 scenery of the Rockies. We camped for the night in an old 

 desert' | -lept the sleep of the tender-foot after 



his first day's effort to keep pace with the hardened native. 

 Within a few miles of the railroad we began to see antelope — 

 singly, in pairs and in herds : and it was the exception rather 

 than "the rule to be out of sight of this game during our en- 

 tire trip. Occasionally a jack-rabbit would start out from 

 almost under our horses' hoofs like a flash, and gracefully 

 bound aw»y over the sage-brush. Occasionally we would 

 flush a covey of sage-hen^ which would lazily fiy a short dis- 

 tance and alight. Next morning, bright and early, we were 

 again in the saddle. We encountered a number of shallow 

 alkaliue lakes filled with wild (Canada) geese, but so tame 

 were they thai we easiily approached on our horses within 

 fifty or seventy-rive yards of them. About 5 r. m. we ar- 

 rived in sight of the ranch and the beautiful valley of the 

 Sweetwater. 



A fur a day's preparation and rest at Tom's mountain home, 

 we took up our line of march for the Rattlesnake range, 

 where we were promised elk, mule deer, and perhaps a 

 grizzly or two. For a long distauce our course lay up Sage 

 Creek ; but toward noon of the second day we struck into 

 the fort-hills. From this time forward Excelsior was the 

 mtrtto forced upon us. " Onward and upward," over rocky 

 cliffs and through deep canyons, uutil at last, as it seemed, 

 that we could no longer sit on our saddles. Tom's welcome 

 word to hah, was thankfully heard in a most lovely spot in a 

 shady grove of balsams, beside the clearest of tumbling, 

 laughing rivulets, 9.000 feet above the sea level, where 

 nature, in all her Virgin purity,, reigps supreme. Oh! tired 

 dwellers in "he whirling, dusty, fever-stricken city, what 

 Would you exchange lor a few breaths of this life-giving 

 mountain air? For a drink of this pure and sparkling water? 

 But why waste words on you ! Few of you would appreciate 

 it Habit has so enslaved" you thai the best gifts of Gtad to 

 man you turn away from, preferring the idols you have set 



up I pity y°u • 



vVli''t 1 am about to relate sounda like a "big whopper" 

 t0 an [.■•., :,.,,-, . :i ,iu 1 do not expect to be to. ly believed 



by anyone who has not been placed in similar circumstances; 

 but nevertheless, it is true to the letter, every word of it. 

 Wp' bad eaten heat lily and arranged our tents for the night 

 and had sat down to s.noke our fragrant pipes when strange 

 noises broke the stillness of the twilight hour. "What's 

 that 1" exclaimed the ever- watchful Ned. "Calves." replied 

 Tom as he gave an extra large puff from his meerschaum. 

 " Calves '" echoed Ned in astonishment. " What ; a herd of 

 cattle way up iu these mountai. s ? ' "They are God's own 

 cattle " says ttncle Lew, solemnly. '' Come," says Xom, "I 

 Will show them toyon," and, proceeding a little way up the 

 stream we suddeuly came upon a beard of cow elks with 

 their calves Eteding quietly on the mountain side. After 

 Eeasting our eyes upon iheui uulil the shadows of night shut 

 them from our view we returned to camp. We had already 

 learned to outwardly show no signs of surprise before Uncle 

 Lew at any novel sight or occurrence, as our critical guide's 

 Standard Of excellence seemed wholly to ilcpei d i ki l n- 



dcnie , i i! tenderness I ''■ . > reuillies. So we 



said nothing; but wrapped ourselves in our blankets and "lay 

 down to pleasant dreams." 



As the first rajs uf the morning sun kissed the surround- 

 ing 'mountain peaks Tom, Ned and myself were in the 

 saddle Proceeding up the canyon about three miles, we 

 left our horses and had gone but a few hundred yards when 

 the peculiar sounds heard the night before greeted our ears. 

 "Don't move," says Tom ; and we stood like statues await- 

 ing the coming band, which approached us on a slow walk, 

 past us within forty yards, apparently without feat 

 Occasionally one would stop awhile and look at us curiously, 

 as much as to sav, " What kind of elks are you, anyhow ?" 

 Thete might have been two hundred in this band, more or 



CS Now the reader undoubtedly begins to query something in 

 this wise : tiidn't you go els hunting ? If so, what a pair of 

 blockheads you must I ave been to have let all of this tiuc 

 came go by without firing a shot. Let me explain. It is 

 true neither Ned nor myself fired a shot at them, and this is 

 the part of my story that I fear will be looked upon with a 

 great deal of incredulity ; but I assert once more that not a 

 gun was fired at this family of elks. I think the reason was 

 that while gazing in wonder at this magnificent pageant fi 

 side show was going on in our rear. Another herd had ap- 

 proached the vicinity of our horses, and, becoming frightened, 

 they had stampeded. This caused so much confusion that 

 we returned to look after our horses. Another reason why 

 we did not kill my of the elk was the fact that one animal 

 would easily supply our larder for a week at least, and we 

 were satisfied that we could get one whenever we wished, 

 which we did in the course of the day, as we came upon a 

 lar-e band lying down, looking in the distauce. like a vast 

 herd of mules. Ned selected a fine bull, v,hose antlers will 

 one day grace bis pleasant home in Connecticut, I dare say. 

 One shot from his W inehester did the work effectually. We 

 cut out the tenderloin, sirloin and tongue, hung the huge 

 antlers on the limb of a tree, and returned to camp well 



sarisried with riicdav's sport. 



We spent several weeks in this delightful mountain camp, 

 taking gl eat pleasure in studying the habits of the numerous 

 targe (animals we found so plentiful, for as to hunting tbem, 

 we were not so cruel as to slaughter them for the mere sake 



of slaughter. Whenever we wished a change of diet from 

 elk tenderloin to roast venison, a few hours would always 

 enable us to bring down a fat buck of the mule-deer species. 

 Did we long for mutton, a trip to the highest surrounding 

 mountain peaks, would be almost sure to gratify that incli- 

 nation, Aut.elope wore always at hand. Sago heus were not 

 favorties with us, their flesh partaking too strongly of the 

 sage flavor, excepting the young chicks, which were very fair 

 eating. But the willow grouse, coveys of which we often 

 found, were delicious. We met in thi3 vicinity no grizzlies, 

 although their " sign" was frequently apparent. 



One day, while riding up the bed of a stream flowing down 

 a canyon, we observed far up the mountain side a large band 

 of cow elk, apparently very much disturbed from some cause. 

 A portion of them would suddenly be thrown into confusion, 

 and running down the mountain incline for a short distance 

 would there as suddenly stop audgoto feeding again. Then 

 another portion of the herd would go through the same 

 manoeuvre. As this proces3 was gradual iy bringing the whole 

 band iu our direction, we tied our horses, and walking to a 

 good point of observation, awaited the Tesult of this singular 

 proceeding. As they were two or three miles distant it took 

 some time before they arrived near enough for us to deter- 

 mine the cause of their agitation. At length we observed 

 the largest bull elk we had yet seen, running from one end 

 of the line to the other, and driving the cows after the man- 

 ner of a Texas cow-boy. Gradually they approached the 

 stream, where the cows drank copiously, wheu the old patri- 

 arch seemed satisfied and drove them no further. Admiration 

 for the sagacity, indomitable perseverance and fatherly care 

 of his flock was uppermost in all of our minds as we stood 

 gazing at this magnificent creature. But must 1 write it? 

 i T es ; for this is a true narrative. These thoughts in my 

 mind gradually changed to those of a selfish desire to become 

 the owner of his antlers. It took but a moment to level my 

 rifle at his heart. At the report, he jumped into the air and 

 fell to hts knees, then gathering himself up, ran into a thick, 

 tangled undergrowth of willows on the margin of tfaestreain. 

 Without thought of the consequences that might ensue I ran 

 iu after him. I soon found myseif entangled in the brush- 

 wood and could proceed but slowly. Suddenly, I was sur- 

 prised to see him jump from the ground, where he was lying 

 hidden, not a dozen feet from me. With glaring eyeballs 

 and an angry shake of the head, he was about to make a rush 

 upon me. "" Retreat was impossible ; and I knew that with a 

 single bound he would be upon me. 1 lost no lime in putting 

 in my work. The " pump handle" on my '76 model Win- 

 chester "flew lively," and the noble animal sank to the 

 ground. His antlers, which mi asure five feet and one inch 

 iu length, now giace my office in Chicago, and I will cheer- 

 fully show them to any of the readers of this sketch. To 

 preserve and prepare them for transportation on pony-back, 

 Tom first skinned the neck and head, unjointed the neck, 

 cli aued the flesh from the skull anil, with a small saw, 

 which we always carried with us, divided the skull between 

 the antlers, through the tip of the nose into two equal parts. 

 The two sides could then be laid and lied togeiher, faking up 

 comparatively but little space. The taxidermist easily bolted 

 the two portions together into their natural positions. 



One lovely afternoon as we were returning to camp we 

 came in view of a very large band of elk lying down in a 

 small gtove surrounded by a large and couip eratively level 

 area. At Ihe suggestion of Tom we rode up as nearly as 

 possible to them, then put our ponies into a lively gallop in 

 their direction, whooping and yelling at the top of our lungs. 

 c?e succeeded iu stampeding them, and wiih frantic efforts 

 they attempted to rush across the plain, buttheirproximity to 

 each other retarded their movements to such an extent that we 

 were soon riding in the midst of them. Then their condition 

 deed comical. The more frightened ihey became they 



more they seemed lo crowd each other, and as we could 

 touch them with Our feet and hands, and they would re- 

 spond to a In- ty kick with the mosl ludicrous sounds, con- 

 tortions and tfforts to escape us. At last they seemed to ap- 

 preciate the condition of affairs and began to scatter, and a? 

 soou as they had sufficient sp tee lo fully use their supple 

 limbs, they quickly left us behind. 



Alter becoming surfeited with the sport in this vicinity 

 we broke camp one morning aud sta-ted for the buffalo 

 range, lying between Rattlesnake and Wind River Moun- 

 tains. Passing by way of Tom s ranch, we left our trophies 

 and replenish d our depleted quartermaster's department. 

 I'hen, taking a mine northwesterly direction, we passed 

 " Devil's Gate," a huge perpendicular chasm of solid rock, 

 sevtral hundred feet high and half a mile long, nearly meet- 

 ing at ihe top, through which the S.veeUvater flows. We 

 saw, too the once famous "Independence Rook," a landmark 

 of the old emgirant trail. This rock is perhaps two hun- 

 dred feet high, and is egg-shaped, covering several acres of 

 ground. Itssuriace is smooth and without verdure. As 

 we approach it a jack-rabbit was flushed and started up the 

 steep incline of the rock. By hallooing aud tiring our guns 

 we frightened the animal so thoroughly out of his wits, 

 that iu his spasmodic efl oi ts to get away he made for the 

 highest point of the rock, often slipping and sliding back- 

 ward, it was most amusing to watch his gyrations, but at 

 lengih he mastered all difficulties aud disappeared over the 

 crest. 



That night we camped on the banks of the North Platte, 

 near the Great Phtte Canyon. The river being low we 

 had no diffiulty in fording it. The next day's ride was over 

 high mountains, through deep gorges and through lovely 

 green valleys. We arrived toward evening at the head of 

 k, which is formed by a large warm spring, the 

 waters of which are impregnated strongly with sulphur and 

 iron. Here we concluded to make our permanent camp, as 

 we had already ssen fresh buffalo signs. The next morning 

 we mounted our ponies and started out in quest of buffalo. 

 On arriving at the top of one of the highest elevations we 

 were in view of an extensive plain, witii the Wind River 

 Mountains visible iu the far dis'ance. Dark spots here and 

 there broke the monotony of the plain, which our field-glass 

 resolved into various sized herds of buffalo, quietly feeding 

 on the sparse bunch-grass. The nearest bunch of them were 

 perhaps three miles distaut, and consisted of twenty or thirty 

 bails. These we determined to approach, which we were 

 easily able lo do by keeping behind an intervening ridge, with 

 the wiod in our favor. Tying our ponies, we crawled on. our 

 bends and knees to the top of the ridge, within one hundred 

 yards of the nearest buffalo. Their huge bodies presented 

 so large a target that it seemed almost impossible lo miss 

 them. At a signal, Ned fired at the one to the left, aud my- 

 Eelf at tne One to the right. INJOur astonishment and cha- 

 grin neither of them fell, but with the remainder of the herd 

 started at their peculiar gait down the mountain side. We 

 emptied oar magazine into them— twenty-four shots — and 

 but two were apparently crippled, one of which we easily 



approached and shot. T . fi and afterward that it required 

 close marksmanship to kill buffalo. With his tongue and 

 hump we went back to camp satisfied. 



In this locality we found but few elk, but plenty of i 

 tain sheep, antelope and mule deer. One da} r , while out 

 alone, I spied a herd of sheep on an opposi e ridge, aud being 

 anxious lo get a shot at a big ram, I tied my horse in the 

 ravine aud commenced scrambling up the steep ascent in 

 their direction, I bad proceeded about half way when I was 

 brought to a standstill by the loud and not to be mistaken 

 warning of the rattlesnake, observing almost at the same 

 instant, and within a few inches of my nose, a large speci- 

 men coiled ready to spring. Two smaller specimens lay 

 neur him. It is needless to say that I "fell back 

 McClellan used to word it in war times. In fact I was totally 

 demoralized and disorganized, but managed to get i 

 pony and to camp without further incident. " Buffalo veal" 

 Tom declared to be the most delicious of all game food, so 

 we determined lo capture a calf. We found this undertak- 

 ing one of considerable labor. Stalling out one morning 

 we hunted several hours without sighting a calf of the 

 requisite fatness. At last, howeveT, Ned and myself ob- 

 served that Tom had discovered a fine one. Putting spurs to 

 our ponies we joined hini iu the chase. It was long and ex- 

 citing. Finally Ned brought it down by a lucky aim, and it 

 was after dark that night when we arrived in camp : but the 

 veal was excellent. 



One morning, during the first week in September, wo 

 awoke to find that a light snow had fal'en during the i 

 Tom observed that, this would be a good day for bears. This 

 was a sufficient hint. I saw Ned's eyes sparkle as we rode 

 away from camp, and he seemed to pay but little attention 

 to Tom's warnings, "not to shoot at a grizzly, unless he was 

 near a tree which he could climb." We proceeded to Ihe 

 carcass of an elk, which several days before, we had observed 

 Bruin had visited. Sure enough lie had been there the 

 previous, and his great tracks In the snow were visible soine 

 distance away. They led down the steep declivity of the 

 canyon to a little stream bordered with willows. As we 

 found it difficult to follow him on horseback, we tied our 

 ponies and proceeded on foot down the canyon, Tom follow- 

 ing the trail in the willows, with Ned aud myself on either 

 side. We forgot all about danger aud convenient trees in 

 our eagerness lo get a shot at grizzly. Tom even forgot to 

 warn us of our danger. We followed along in this way per- 

 haps three-quarters of a mile, when with a crash through the 

 bushes he appeared before me, not over eight or ten yards 

 away. He saw ma and quickly turned back. As he did so, 

 I made a snap-shot at his huge broad side. The next instant 

 he disappeared in the willows agrin. A moment later, 1 

 heard the discharge of Ned's rifle on the opposite side. 

 Wheu the echoes, repeated from the surrounding rocks, had 

 died away, all was once more still. Tom and myself were 

 soon at Ned's side, but the bear was nowhere to be seen. 

 Advancing cautiously, we soon found born lying dead be- 

 neath a projecting rock, over which he had evidently fallen. 

 My shot had entered his stomach, Ned's had broken bis; 

 neck, "Lucky shot that," said Tom, and we both appre- 

 ciated the remark. We found that m o had killed a large 

 •.rizzly. which would weigh S80 or 1,000 pounds. We care- 

 fully took off his hide, preserving hi3 ears, nose and claws 

 with Ihe skin. To kill a grizzly was our greatest ambUion, 

 We had now accomplished this, and were ready to go back 

 lo civilization. 



On bur journey back we came in view of quite a large 

 herd of cow elk Wishing to test the greatest failing of these 

 animals — viz., their unbounded curiosity— I allowed my com 

 pauions to keep down the valley, while I skirted around to 

 their reai. I approached them very cautiously, and ob- 

 serving them all facing and intent on Ihe pack train n 

 I gradually crept nearer and nearer to them, till la 

 most touch the nearest one with, my gun. I stood motionh s 3 

 sometime until my party was our of sight, when slowly one 

 of the elks turned its head and looked at me. What passed 

 in that elk's mind I cannot positively assert, but it certain!) 

 seemed to me to look as if it were ashamed of itself. 8ooa 

 all of the band were looking at me, appearing as foolish as it 

 they had been caught stealing chickens. After a short oh. 

 servation, the leader concluded it was lime to get out of th u 

 silly predicament, and he made off, followed by the whole 

 band. 



Another incident, worthy of notice, happened in this un- 

 frequented region. Our party had stopped 10 lunch near an 

 old spring, when we observed a herd of antelope at some 

 distance. Their curiosity prompted them to come Within 

 two or three hundred yards of us. Then they all stot p d 

 but one, a fawn about two-thirds grown, which continued to 

 approach until it was within a low feet of ns, being a;)- 

 pirently unconsc! ' »er. This was the onl 



unlimited confidence we had on our entire trip. 



We reached Rawlins in good health and spirits, and were 

 soon again engaged in the great struggle of humauiti after 

 the "almighty dohni ." H. L. Story, 



OMeago, 1832 



AUTC BIOGRAPHY OF MUNCH. S TANDWELL. 



A. "RB.MIN1SOK.VlJS" OP THE WATS. 



WHEN" the war begau I was a very gallant soldier; in 

 fact, I could out-talk most anybody be ore I ! 

 commenced in earnest. I even made a verbal contract with 

 Bill Terry, Ihe tanner ia our settlement, to furnish him with 

 five huudredof the enemies bides, of my own killing, In 

 saddle skirls for the cavalry. 



Just before the serious fighting began I applied for the 

 sutlership of the regiment and got it. During our first 6a.. 

 eagement (Seven Pines) I was busy laying in a stuck of 

 goods. After the battle of Cold Harbor I rode down ti 

 Held, partly from motives of curiosity and also to see hoi 

 "boys" fared. When I discovered my regiment lyi 

 their arms on the battlefield one of the "boys" yelled out, 

 "Bill, this is a good chance fur you ter git them h'v 

 dred hides fur Bill Terry. He won't know who killed 'em 

 About the same time 1 heard a thel! burst in the distance 

 and, concluding that my visit was not properly appreciates 

 by the "boys," I turned my face toward the city, and trav- 

 eled on the "spur of the in • e way. 



Shortly after this I was out on a private foraging expedi- 

 tion. Riding along the road I arrived at the sumu, 

 hill overlooking a valley through which a small stream rac. 

 Looking down the hill I saw, at the ford below, a man wash- 

 ing his "bauds. I thought, from his ge I ■" 

 he was one of the enemy. With ibis refieethjn I exceedingly 

 quaked and trembled, for 1 hud heard very equivocal sounds 

 in a cornfield behind me, and was making has e to gel . 

 from that vicinity, not knowing but they might be eneini.-s 



