40 



THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 



MILLINERY FOR MEN IN KOREA 



This sedate citizen is not wearing a lamp 

 shade, but an oiled-paper umbrella to protect 

 from the rain his pill-box hat of horse hair 

 perched upon a tightly coiled queue. Note his 

 long pipe. 



pied for years, and on the hillside above 

 it was a row of little bark shrines, each of 

 which had been built as an offering to 

 the god of the mountain by a native who 

 had hunted there. My gun-bearer set 

 about the construction of another while 

 the horses were being unloaded, and to- 

 gether we brought a cup of sake and a 

 little rice to propitiate the joss. 



The hut was on the very outskirts of 

 the dense forest which stretched far 

 away to the northwest up the slopes of 

 the Long White Mountain ; but shooting 

 was poor and we left in a few days. 



The wilderness became thicker as we 

 ascended the plateau and the oak and 

 birch trees disappeared, giving place to 

 larches, from 60 to 100 feet in height, 

 strung with long gray moss. We saw 

 but few birds and no mammals, and even 

 at night when the traps were set the bait 

 remained untouched. 



The silence and the subtle influences 

 of the forest began to work upon the 

 imaginations of the Koreans, and after 

 we had been threading our way for five 

 days through the mazes of an untouched 

 wilderness the natives were discouraged 

 and asked to return. They knew not 

 where they were going or why, except 

 that we were to reach the base of the 

 Paik-tu-san. When we were high upon 

 the mountain slopes the snow had become 

 so deep that it was difficult to proceed, 

 and we made the last camp in a driving 

 storm of sleet and rain which kept us in 

 the tents for two days. 



I had heard before leaving Nonsatong 

 of what the Koreans called the Samche- 

 yong, "Three bodies of water." The de- 

 scription sounded much like lakes, which 

 were not supposed to exist in Korea, and 

 it seemed well worthy of investigation. 

 My gun-bearer had been at the Samche- 

 yong 18 years previously, when a boy, and 

 I had learned its general location in ref- 

 erence to the Paik-tu-san. It was decided, 

 therefore, to return two or three days* 

 march, strike directly through the forest 

 to the Samcheyong, and make our way to 

 the Yalu River, which could be descended 

 to the west coast. 



The Koreans were delighted to turn 

 southward, and after reaching an open 

 glade on the bank of a creek we camped 

 for a few days, trying to trap. We caught 



