TAHITI. 27 



while by that which follows the shores, it is fifty miles before the 

 point at which the ascent begins is reached. None of the guides 

 were acquainted with this route, and it was therefore necessary to 

 find a person who was. For this purpose they in the first place 

 proceeded towards the eastward from Matavai, for about five miles, to 

 the mouth of the river Pappino, which they reached about 2 p. m. 

 Here they found a guide, and were informed that the stream was much 

 swollen : they however determined to go forward, and were accom- 

 panied by a troop of boys and girls with flowers. Before they had 

 proceeded far, they reached a place where it was necessary to ford 

 the stream, which they found difficult on account of the rapidity, 

 although the water was only three feet deep. Other fords of the 

 same description occurred every few rods, until they at last reached 

 one in which the water reached to their necks. This was of course 

 dangerous to those who could not swim, but all crossed in safety. A 

 young native, as if in derision of the difficulty which they appeared 

 to experience, and of their effeminate bringing up, dashed into the 

 flood, and was seen plunging down the rapids as if in sport, and 

 evidently with great enjoyment, although frequently wholly immersed 

 in the foam. Our gentlemen had now an opportunity of comparing 

 their own awkwardness and want of ease in the new position in 

 which they were placed, with the agility and freedom of motion 

 exhibited by the natives. 



The whole afternoon was thus spent in travelling about three 

 miles, at the end of which they reached some huts, in which they 

 passed the night comfortably. These huts they were informed had 

 been erected by natives, who wished to enjoy a carouse of Ava, far 

 from the notice of the judges, and free from the intrusion of their 

 spies. Here they were able to indulge in their old habits of de- 

 bauchery, which not unfrequently ended in riot and bloodshed. 



In the morning, after three hours' travelling, during which they 

 frequently crossed the stream, they reached a place where a branch 

 of it came in from the southwest. Some natives assured them 

 that by taking this route they might reach the top of Pitohiti, 

 and stated that this had been done during the last war by some 

 natives, who occupied it as a place of refuge. In support of this 

 statement, they mentioned that these refugees had found the birds 

 so tame that they might be taken by hand. This circumstance, 

 which, from its apparent incredibility, might seem to disprove the 

 statement, is in fact almost positive evidence of its truth, when 



