TAHITI. 35 



up to Papara, and the surf dashes with some violence against the 

 shore ; hut the passage, except for a short distance, was made within 

 the reef and in smooth water. 



As Taati was absent, one of his sons, (and he is reported to have a 

 dozen,) did the honours of the house, and provided them with break- 

 fast. This consisted of pig, taro, and bread-fruit, the standing dishes 

 of Tahiti. The table was covered with a cloth made of Russia 

 sheeting, and furnished with plates, cups and saucers, knives, forks, 

 and spoons. 



In this place, also, a large portion of the popxilation, and particu- 

 larly of the women, assembled to have a look at the strangers. It 

 was remarked that there was more beauty among the young girls 

 than they had before seen upon the island. Many of them had their 

 heads gaily and tastefully ornamented with flowers. 



On leaving Papara, they were accompanied by a bevy of these gay 

 damsels, laughing and enjoying themselves with each other, and 

 with the guides. The latter had also stuck the scarlet Rosa Sinensis 

 through the lobes of the ears, and decorated their heads with wreaths 

 after the manner of the girls. 



At Papara, the coast begins to wind to the northwest, and gradu- 

 ally inclines more to the northward. Their route again lay along the 

 Broom Road, which extends completely around the island. It is in 

 places almost arched over by trees, that grow on each side of it, and 

 form a delightful shade. It may be termed a national work, and but 

 for its want of width, would bear comparison with many of the turn- 

 pikes in the United States. The streams which intersect it have all 

 been once crossed by good bridges of plank, but these are now going 

 to decay. 



At short intervals are groves of cocoa-nut trees, planted along the 

 road ; these are called the queen's, and travellers are at liberty to help 

 themselves to the fruit. The private groves whose fruit it is wished 

 to protect, are tabooed. This is indicated by tying a girdle of leaves 

 around them, and this simple signal is still respected, although the 

 superstition on which its sanctity was founded has ceased to prevail. 

 The natives travel a great deal on this road, and some use it in going 

 to visit places on the opposite side of the island, in preference to 

 passing over the mountains. 



At sunset they reached Otapuna, which is a large village, 

 pleasantly situated ou a low point of land, covered with orange, 



