4 TAHITI. 



again surrounded by a line of breakers dashing in snow-white foam 

 on the encircling reefs of coral. Such objects are sufficient to form 

 a beautiful landscape, and my disappointment probably arose in part 

 from finding every thing more diminutive than I had been led to 

 imagine from the highly-wrought descriptions I had been perusing 

 only a few days before. 



We were surrounded, even before we anchored, by canoes of all 

 shapes and sizes, whose crews made a prodigious clamour. I at once 

 interdicted any one who was not a chief from coming on board ; but 

 upon this being announced, every one claimed to be a chief of some 

 description or other. Only the great chiefs, therefore, were admitted. 

 These came off in whale-boats, which are now superseding the canoe, 

 and brought with them trifling presents of fruit. It was soon found 

 that their errand was not one of mere ceremony, but was intended to 

 solicit the washing of our dirty linen, a business which is among the 

 prerogatives of the queen and chiefs. I was informed that the queen, 

 being enceinte, was residing on the opposite side of the island, which 

 would prevent her from paying us a visit. I was, therefore, at liberty 

 to choose a less distinguished laundress, and spared the pain of 

 resisting her royal solicitations for soap, an article much needed and 

 in great request at Tahiti. 



I was glad when the night closed in, to be rid of our numerous 

 visiters. The pilot, who goes by the name of " English Jim," was 

 equally so, for he chose to be considered as the only privdeged 

 person, and, besides, was looking somewhat to his own profit in the 

 line of clothes-washing, a business which the presence of the chiefs 

 threatened to interfere with. Jim is quite a respectable-looking man, 

 dresses in the European fashion, and speaks English, which he has 

 acquired on board of whale-ships, tolerably well. Although a good 

 pilot, so far as a knowledge of the shoals goes, he does not understand 

 what to do with a vessel, in case of difficulty. He told me that he 

 had been looking out for vessels for some days, for it had thundered. 



Although the shape and extent of Tahiti are well known, I venture 

 to give a map of it, which has been made as correct as our opportu- 

 nities would permit. The two peninsulas, if the_y may be so termed, 

 of which it is made up, are of very different characters. The smaller 

 one, called Tairaboo, and usually spoken of as " the small island," is 

 said to be the most fertile : it possesses some harbours, but they are 

 little better known than they were half a century ago. Both penin- 

 sulas possess twenty-four harbours, including the good and bad. Tahiti 



