TAHITI AND EIMEO. 43 



current, which rushes strongly out and sometimes across the passage, 

 may cause a vessel to drift upon the western reef. The proper mode 

 of guarding against this, is to keep the vessel as close as possible to 

 the eastern reef. 



The scenery at Papieti is remarkable : the background is filled 

 up with a number of pinnacle-shaped mountains, jiitting up in a 

 great variety of forms ; beneath, and directly in front of them, lies 

 the semicircular harbour, surrounded by the white cottages and 

 churches of the village, embosomed in luxuriant foliage ; these 

 dwellings have a peaceful and home-like look, to the eye of an 

 American. In front, the little coral island of Moto-utu forms an 

 embellished foreground, and serves to break the regularity of the 

 line of the harbour, while by concealing its extent, it gives it an air 

 of greater magnitude than it in reality possesses. To my eye, this 

 view combined within itself a perfect picture of Polynesian scenery, 

 enhanced in beauty by the signs of civilization, among which was 

 the national flag of Tahiti, waving from a fortress on Moto-utu. 



The purpose of my visit to Papieti had originally been to go 

 through the ceremony of receiving the great chiefs on board, when, 

 according to custom, presents are made them ; but before this was 

 done, I determined that the business, which I had laid before the 

 council, as stated in the preceding chapter, should be adjusted. This 

 was done satisfactorily on the 22d, when they assented to all that had 

 been asked of them. I am convinced that their conduct in this 

 matter was dictated throughout by a sense of what is right, and am 

 satisfied that if grievances do exist, it is only necessary to state them, 

 when, if redress is within their power, it will be granted. 



Agreeably to my invitation, Uata, who appeared as the representa- 

 tive of the queen, the two princesses, Ninito and Taii, and all the 

 head chiefs, visited the ship, accompanied by the foreign consuls. 

 The ship was dressed for the occasion with flags, and they were 

 received with every mark of respect. Luncheon was prepared for 

 them ; and when they were all seated at it, it struck me that I had 

 never seen such a collection of corpulent persons. Previous to eating, 

 one of the oldest chiefs said grace. Their appetites were good ; none 

 of the food appeared to come amiss. They seemed heartily to enjoy 

 themselves, and conducted themselves with a propriety that surprised 

 us all. They were cautious in partaking of the wine which was set 

 before them, and seemed evidently upon their good behaviour. This 

 was the case with the high chiefs, who, to the number of about 



