TUTUILA. 77 



and the tents and instruments were landed. Understanding that I 

 wanted to see the sun and stars, I was told by Mr. Murray, the white 

 residents, and natives, that I should have little weather for observa- 

 tions for the next fortnight, which proved literally true, with the 

 exception of the last two days. 



The oreolooncal character of this island is similar to that of Manua ; 

 it has only a shore reef of coral, and soundings extend some distance 

 from it. It has many desirable ports or bays on its north side, where 

 vessels may obtain wood, water, and supplies. The best and safest 

 port, however, is that of Pago-pago, on its south side, which affords a 

 safe harbour for vessels to overhaul, and where supplies may be 

 obtained in abundance. 



Pago-pago is thickly settled round its shores, and particularly at its 

 southwestern end : this is lower and more easily cultivated than 

 the eastern, which is high and rugged. The only communication is 

 by the sea-shore, the hills being too precipitous and difficult of ascent, 

 to pass over. 



The men of Tutuila are a remarkably tall fine-looking set, with 

 intelligent and pleasing countenances. In comparison with the 

 Tahitians, they would be called sedate. 



The women are far from being good-looking, with the exception 

 of some of the younger ones. They are remarkably domestic and 

 virtuous, exhibiting a strange contrast to those of Tahiti. Here there 

 is no indiscriminate intercourse, the marriage tie is respected, and 

 parents are extremely fond of their offspring. The inhabitants are 

 disposed to be hospitable to strangers, although they expect re- 

 muneration for it. Travelling is generally believed to be safe 

 throughout the island of Tutuila, and the natives, as far as our 

 experience goes, are not the blood-thirsty race they have been re- 

 ported to be. The unfavourable estimate of their character has, I 

 presume, been derived from those who first knew them, and particu- 

 larly from their attack upon the expedition of La Perouse. Of 

 this conflict I obtained the following particulars from the Rev. Mr. 

 Murray, who had them from an old man, who was a witness of the 

 affray. The latter is the only individual now alive in the settlement 

 who was present when it occurred, and his testimony was corrobo- 

 rated by others who had heard of it from those who witnessed the 

 scene. 



On the morning of the massacre, the vessels stood in towards the 

 land. About noon the boats went ashore, as recorded by La Perouse, 



vol. ii. 20 



