80 TUTDILA. 



The tapa or rugs worn by distinguished chiefs, were preserved, 

 and were formerly much venerated by them. Since the introduction 

 of Christianity, however, such has been its influence that they will 

 now readily part with any thing of the kind. Pomale was induced 

 to let us have those in his possession, and also exchanged the " war 

 spirit" mat for a small present for his wife. 



On the 17th, our friend Toa gave us an invitation to visit him at 

 his town of Fungasar, on the north side of the island. It is situated 

 on the next bay to that now called Massacre Bay, where De L angle 

 was killed. The path across the island is a very difficult one to 

 travel ; it leads up through the valley, and across the dividing ridge, 

 which is quite precipitous. The rain which had fallen made it very 

 slippery, and the journey was fatiguing to those not accustomed to 

 this kind of walking. 



I was much struck here with the manliness and intelligence of the 

 natives, with a frank open expression of countenance. The colour 

 of their complexion is rather darker than that of the natives of Tahiti. 

 The outlines of face and figure are very like those we had left, their 

 hair and eyes black, and their teeth good and white. Some of them 

 had frizzled hair, but it was generally straight. 



Just before arriving at the village, we were met by Toa, and some 

 of his relations and attendants, who welcomed us to his village, 

 saluting me by rubbing his nose with my hand ; this is the usual 

 custom. 



He ordered a pig, taro, bread-fruit, &c, &c, for our entertainment. 

 These were cooked in the universal Polynesian mode, by being 

 covered up in a hole with hot stones. We were soon told that the 

 feast was ready, but having had some experience of their cooking, 

 we desired it might remain in the oven a little while longer. Their 

 usual custom is to take it out the moment that the taro is cooked, and 

 from daily practice they are well acquainted with the time required to 

 cook it. This is scarcely sufficient to give the pig time to be warmed 

 through. Our request prevailed, and in the course of half an hour we 

 were summoned to the council-house or fale tele, where strangers are 

 always entertained. We were shown our seats on one side of a 

 circle, while Toa, with his famdy and friends, occupied the other. 

 The mats, except one, were not very clean. The pig, which must 

 have weighed one hundred pounds, was brought in, and laid with 

 the taro and bread-fruit on banana-leaves. A butcher's knife was all 

 that we possessed to carve it with. The whole village, old and 



