86 TUTUILA. 



green slippers, cap and bonnet, a large plaid blanket shawl, and a 

 pair of polar gloves, the whole surmounted by a flaming red silk 

 umbrella — and this with the thermometer at 87° ! It was difficult to 

 keep our eyes off her during the service, and before the end of it, 

 all her finery became awry. The other natives also seemed to have 

 the desire of exhibiting their acquisitions, though these consisted fre- 

 quently of no more than a vest, or a pair of pantaloons, without shirt, 

 or occasionally of a long-skirted coat, without either of the former 

 garments, so that a small roll of tapa was needed to cover their nether 

 parts. 



Some unauthorized attempts were made to induce the natives to 

 break the missionary laws, by offers of great value in their eyes; 

 they were told the missionaries would not see them. On under- 

 standing which, they pointed to the heavens, and replied, " There 

 missionary see." This was conclusive, and a just and severe rebuke. 



The Peacock and Flying-Fish again joined us on the 18th of 

 October, in eight days from Papieti. Orders were at once given them 

 to proceed to Upolu, to commence the survey of that island. (See Ap- 

 pendix VI.) They did not sail, however, until the 20th, having been 

 detained by the winds. The harbour of Pago-pago, though easy of 

 access, is extremely difficult to leave, in consequence of the southeast 

 trade winds blowing directly in, and rendering it necessary to make 

 short tacks. Indeed, a vessel no sooner gets headway on one tack, 

 than it is found necessary to tack again. The sea is often heavy at the 

 mouth of the harbour, and the shore is lined with a narrow coral reef 

 all around it. I was glad to see the Peacock safe outside, after 

 beating about four hours. 



During our stay on this island, the whole w r as examined, the 

 harbour surveyed, and the principal heights determined. Tide- 

 gauges were kept on the north and south sides, and the observations 

 for magnetic dip, variation, and intensity, made. The temperature 

 during our stay of fourteen days varied from 73° to 88° ; the mean 

 temperature was 80-50°. 



The climate of Tutuila is mild and agreeable, particularly at Pago- 

 pago, where the temperature is lower than it is elsewhere on the 

 island, in consequence of its generally being overshadowed with 

 clouds that hang on the high land. There is usually a fine breeze, 

 which sets in about ten o'clock, and continues until sunset. The 

 nights being calm, much dew falls in fine weather. We had little 

 fair weather during our stay, and the prognostication of the natives 



