CHAPTER IV. 



UPOLU — MANONO — S A V A 1 1. 

 1839. 



The surveys of the island of Tutuila having been completed by 

 the 23d November, we made preparations for our departure, and on 

 the 25th we weighed anchor. In leaving the harbour we had a 

 narrow escape from wreck; the almost constant southeast wind, 

 which is fair to a vessel entering the bay, and makes it easy of 

 access, is ahead on going out, which renders egress difficult; it 

 therefore becomes necessary to make frequent tacks, and a vessel 

 must be well manoeuvred to escape accident, for to miss stays would 

 be almost certain to bring about shipwreck. When we beat out, 

 the wind was light, and it failed altogether just as we reached the 

 most dangerous part of the channel ; we were in consequence brought 

 within an oar's length of the reef, on which a heavy surf was break- 

 ing. The moment was a trying one, and the event doubtful; all 

 were at their stations, and not a word was spoken. Of my own 

 feelings on the occasion I have no very precise recollection ; merely 

 remembering that I felt as if I breathed more freely after the crisis 

 had passed and we were in safety. 



The afternoon was fine, and we sailed along the southern shore of 

 the island, admiring its diversified surface, its luxuriant groves, and 

 the smiling villages that crown its bays. Where the valleys come 

 out from between the ridges to the shore, there is usually a level 

 plain extending inwards for a couple of miles ; these plains are occu- 

 pied for the most part by groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, beneath 

 whose shade lie the dwellings of the natives. Many of the inhabitants 

 were abroad in their canoes, employed in fishing; some of them 

 scarcely seemed to notice the ship, passing them rapidly with all sail 



