NEW ZEALAND. 419 



often filling and lighting his pipe, and holding it in his mouth while 

 he smoked. Notwithstanding the promising appearance of Ko-towa- 

 towa's house and premises, it was found swarming with fleas and 

 other vermin. Ko-towatowa is a member of the Episcopal Church, 

 and daily performed worship in his native tongue. After their morn- 

 ing meal, they began their rambles, but had not proceeded far before 

 they were met by a large party of natives, who kept saying to them, 

 "walk about one hilling," by which they soon understood that they 

 were required to pay one shilling for the privilege of walking on the 

 beach and picking up shells : on Ko-towatowa's being appealed to, he 

 soon dispersed them. On a hill, near this place, Mr. Drayton found 

 a beautiful specimen of Bulimus Shougii. 



Wangarara Bay is a deep indentation in the coast, to which it runs 

 parallel, and is separated from the ocean by a narrow belt of high 

 and rocky land. It is said to have good anchorage for a distance of 

 six miles from its mouth. The entrance is very deep, free from 

 danger, and about one mile wide. It is a much safer port than the 

 Bay of Islands. A vessel might pass by its entrance without sus- 

 pecting that a harbour existed. Provisions of all kinds are much 

 cheaper and better than at the Bay ; and although the natives are 

 aware of this difference, yet not being able to transport their provi- 

 sions there, they are content to dispose of them for a less price. 



Their kind friend Ko-towatowa took them back to Wangarara, 

 stopping on the way at his pa, where he presented them with quan- 

 tities of peaches, which had been tabooed to his people. At Wanga- 

 rara they again found their guide, and the two old chiefs, — the elder of 

 whom was called Kawau, and the other, a little younger, Ruahenna : 

 both of them have the character of being great rascals. The contrast 

 between them and Ko-towatowa was very much to their disparage- 

 ment. With some reluctance, they ordered a pot of potatoes to be 

 boiled ; but when night came, they positively refused entrance into 

 their huts unless each gave a shilling, to which Ko-towatowa sternly 

 objected, saying that they were his guests, and should not pay. A 

 quarrel between the chiefs ensued, and the only way it was prevented 

 from going to extremity, was to slip the money quietly into old 

 Kawau's hand ; after which, peace was restored, and they retired for 

 the night, where they were effectually tormented by the fleas and 

 vermin. Ko-towatowa, on taking leave of them, refused any com- 

 pensation for his services ; but a pressing invitation to pay them a 

 visit at the Bay was accepted. 



