KAUAI AND O A H U. 



73 



As yet there is little appearance of increase in industry, or im- 

 provement in the dwellings of the natives. There are no more than 

 about seventy pupils in this district, who are taught by natives; 

 there are two houses of worship, and about forty communicants. No 

 decrease is apparent in the population within a few years. 



On the fertile places, although the pasturage was good, yet no 

 cattle were to be seen. 



From Lihui, they pursued their way to Hanawale, which is a 

 small fishing village at the mouth of a little stream. The country on 

 this route was uninteresting, until they reached Wailua, the residence 

 of Deborah, a chief woman of the islands, readily known as such 

 from her enormous size, and the cast of her countenance. She has a 

 person living with her called Olivia Chapin, who speaks English, 

 and has learned how to extort money. Deborah has about forty men 

 in her district ; but they were absent, being employed in the moun- 

 tains cutting timber to pay the tax to the king. 



Near Deborah's residence are extensive fish-ponds belonging to 

 her, which have been made with great labour : they are of different 

 degrees of saltness; the fish are taken from the sea when young 

 and put into the saltest pond ; as they grow larger, they are removed 

 into one less salt, and are finally fattened in fresh water. While our 

 gentlemen were there, Deborah received young fish in payment of 

 the poll-tax, which were immediately transferred to her ponds. 



Wailua, (two waters,) was formerly a place of some importance. 

 It is situated on a small stream of the same name, in a barren, sandy 

 spot. 



Deborah furnished them with a double canoe, to carry them up the 

 river to visit the falls. Taking the western branch, they ascended it 

 for two and a half miles. 



There are many good taro-patches and sugar-plantations on its 

 banks. They landed in what appeared to have been an old crater, in 

 form of a basin, with high perpendicular banks. The low grounds 

 along the river are extremely fertile, producing bread-fruit, sugar-cane, 

 oranges, &c. The latter, however, are suffering from the blight, and 

 some of the trees were covered with a black smut, produced by a 

 species of aphis. 



In ascending, an insulated black rock is passed, known as the 

 "Muu," which has been detached from a high rocky bluflf, that is 

 remarkable for the dikes visible in it. 



They afterwards ascended the bank, two hundred feet high, and 



VOL. IV. 19 



