M A U N A L O A. 123 



looks as if one miffht walk over its smooth surface without difficulty ; 

 there is, indeed, so much optical deception in respect to this moun- 

 tain, that it served to give us all great encouragement, and we set 

 about making our preparations with a determination to succeed in 

 the attempt to reach its highest summit. The position of the crater 

 of Kilauea was denoted by the silvery cloud which hangs over it by 

 day; which, as evening closed in, was, by the glare of the fires burning 

 beneath, made visible throughout the night. 



My time was now actively employed in establishing the obser- 

 vatory at Waiakea Point, for rating the chronometers, and in arranging 

 the instruments to carry on simultaneous observations with our 

 mountain party. I had also a house built after the native fashion, in 

 order that some of the officers might be engaged upon the charts. 



Waiakea Point is situated on the opposite side of the bay from Hilo. 

 The distance between them is a little more than a mile, and the path 

 leads along a sandy beach, on which the surf continually breaks, and 

 at times with great violence. 



Hilo is a straggling village, and is rendered almost invisible by the 

 luxuriant growth of the sugar-cane, which the natives plant around 

 their houses. A good road has been made through it for the extent 

 of a mile, at one end of which the mission establishment is situated. 

 This consists of several houses, most of which are of modern style, 

 covered with zinc and shingles. One of them, however, the resi- 

 dence of the Rev. Mr. Coan, was in very different style, and derived 

 importance in our eyes, from its recalling the associations of home. 

 It was an old-fashioned, prim, red Yankee house, with white sills and 

 casements, and double rows of small windows. No one could mistake 

 the birthplace of the architect, and although thirty degrees nearer 

 the equator than the climate whence its model was drawn, I could 

 not but think it as well adapted to its new as to its original station. 



The whole settlement forms a pretty cluster ; the paths and road- 

 sides are planted with pine-apples ; the soil is deep and fertile, and 

 through an excess of moisture, yields a rank vegetation. 



The church is of mammoth dimensions, and will, it is said, accom- 

 modate as many as seven thousand persons. It is now rapidly falling 

 into decay, and another is in progress of erection. Many of the native 

 houses are surrounded with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and have 

 a fine view of the bay. 



During our passage from Oahu, it was arranged that each of the 



