O V O L A U. 49 



off the port, and made all sail for it. At nine o'clock, being off the 

 entrance, I took the precaution, as the breeze was light, to hoist the 

 boats out (having to pass through a passage only eight hundred feet 

 in width), and sent them ahead to tow. At first it is not a little alarm- 

 ing to approach these entrances with a light wind, and often with a 

 strong current setting in or out : the ship rolling and tossing with the 

 swell as she nears the reefs, the deep-blue water of the ocean curling 

 into white foam on them, with no bottom until the entrance is gained, 

 when a beautiful and tranquil basin opens to the view. 



The remarkable peculiarity of these coral harbours, if so I may 

 call them, is that in gaining them, it is but an instant from the time 

 the sea is left until security is found equal to that of an artificial 

 dock; this is particularly the case with the harbour of Levuka. The 

 shore was lined with natives, watching our progress with their usual 

 curiosity; and it was amusing to hear the shouts of applause that 

 emanated from the crowds on shore, when they witnessed the men, 

 dressed all in white, running up the rigging to furl the sails. 



In passing to the anchorage, we saw a tiny boat, in which was 

 David Whippy, one of the principal white residents here, with one 

 of his naked children. This man ran away from a ship, commanded 

 by his brother, that was trading in this group, in consequence of the 

 ill treatment he received on board ; he now has been eighteen years on 

 this island, and is the principal man among the whites. He is con- 

 sidered a royal messenger, or Maticum Ambau, and is much looked 

 up to by the chiefs. He speaks their language well ; is a prudent 

 trustworthy person, and understands the character of the natives 

 perfectly : his worth and excellent character I had long heard of* 

 He immediately came on board to welcome us, and after we had 

 anchored near the town, he brought off Tui Levuka, the chief of the 

 Levuka town. This dignitary was a stout, well-made man, strong 

 and athletic, entirely naked, with the exception of a scanty maro, 

 with long ends of white tapa hanging down before and behind, and a 

 turban of white fleecy tapa, not unlike tissue-paper, around his head, 

 of enormous size. These turbans designate the chiefs, and frequently 

 have a small wreath of flowers over them. His face was a shining 

 black, having been painted for the occasion; his countenance had a 

 good expression, and he seemed, after a few moments, to be quite at his 

 ease. As is customary, I at once gave him a present of two whale's 

 teeth and two fathoms of red cotton cloth, with which he was well 



* He has, since our return, been appointed vice-consul for the Feejee Group. 

 vol. in. 13 



