OVOLAU. 57 



magnificent scenery around, and advanced rapidly and gracefully 

 along; it was a single canoe, one hundred feet in length, with an out- 

 rigger of large size, ornamented with a great number (two thousand 

 five hundred) of the Cyprsea ovula shells ; its velocity was almost 

 inconceivable, and every one was struck with the adroitness with 

 which it was managed and landed on the beach.* 



Tanoa disembarked, accompanied by his attendants, who are gene- 

 rally Tonga men, forty of whom had the direction and sailing of his 

 canoe. Shortly after landing, he was met by Mr. Vanderford, who 

 had formerly been shipwrecked here, and who had lived under his 

 protection for ten months. The meeting was a curious one : the old 

 chief walked up to him, and stood looking, first on one side and then 

 on the other, without noticing him, and pretending that he did not 

 see him ; Mr. Vanderford then walked up to him, clapped him on 

 the back, and called him by name, when they both began laughing 

 heartily. Mr. Vanderford spoke much of the kindness of Tanoa to 

 him during his residence among the people of Ambau : it is true, that 

 he robbed him of every thing but his skin, but then he protected him 

 from the attacks of others. Shortly afterwards a large double canoe 

 arrived, entirely manned by Tonga people, under their two chiefs, 

 Lajika and Tubou Totai, who were both of them, with about five 

 hundred of their followers, paying Tanoa a visit at Ambau ; they were 

 the sons of Tubou Ninha, and nephews of the celebrated Finau. 

 Tubou Totai told me that he and his brothers had been residing several 

 years in the Feejees; that they were employed building canoes on 

 some of the eastern islands ; and that it generally took them seven 

 years from the time they left Tonga, to finish them and return. 



Tanoa took up his abode in the Mbure, or council-house, which is 

 the place where all strangers are entertained. Here he seated himself, 

 with his principal attendants about him, when his orator, or prime 

 minister, made a complimentary oration, at the end of which a clap- 

 ping of hands took place ; to this oration one of the principal towns- 

 people replied. This is the usual mode of conducting the ceremony; 

 the guest, the moment he arrives, gives a condensed account of all his 

 doings since they last saw each other, ending with many compliments ; 

 to which the host replies in equally flattering terms, wishing him all 



* I was told that Tanoa frequently amuses himself, when sailing, by running down 

 canoes, leaving those who belong to them to recover their canoe and property the best 

 way they can. 



vol. in. 15 



