212 CALIFORNIA. 



wretched under their present rulers ; female virtue, I regret to say, is 

 also at a low ebb ; and the coarse and lascivious dances which meet 

 the plaudits of the lookers-on, show the degraded tone of manners 

 that exist. 



The mission of San Rafael is in the fertile valley of that name, 

 about twelve miles from Sausalito, and consists of a large building, 

 with a small chapel at its end ; it is in a tolerable state of preser- 

 vation, and is under the superintendence of an Irishman, named 

 Murphy. He has been put there, from its being considered a place 

 of emolument, through his interest with the governor, and in order 

 to pick up the crumbs that are still left. I understood, however, that 

 Murphy had been disappointed in his expectations, and that it was his 

 intention to establish himself elsewhere. Padre Kihas resides at this 

 mission for six months of the year, and performs the duties of priest 

 to those around it. 



On the 24th of October, a fete was given at this place, in honour of 

 the patron saint ; and it was rumoured that there was to be a grand 

 bull-fight. This spectacle came off accordingly, but was so miserably 

 conducted as to prevent all kind of sport. The bulls had greatly the 

 advantage, and the men and horses were tumbled about in a ridi- 

 culous manner, until they both became quite shy. They had cut off 

 the tips of the bulls' horns, which was a fortunate circumstance for 

 both horses and riders, who received no material injury. There was 

 no bull and bear fight; in consequence, it was understood, of their not 

 being able to procure one of the latter animals. In the fights between 

 the bull and bear, it is said that however strong and savage the bull 

 may be, the bear is always the conqueror : the only part of the bull 

 he endeavours to attack is the tongue, by seizing which he inva- 

 riably proves the victor. 



When the fights were over, dancing was resorted to, and continued 

 during the evening and all night. It was accompanied with hard 

 drinking and uproarious conduct. Mr. Murphy's entertainment was 

 considered fully equal to any that had been given for some time, 

 and particularly the latter part of it, which may be better imagined 

 than described. 



Our duties at this port being completed, I felt desirous of knowing 

 something of the missions at the south end of the bay of San Fran- 

 cisco, and, with Captain Hudson, determined to make a visit to them. 



We left the Vincennes on the morning of the 29th, at an early 

 hour, intending to reach the mission of Santa Clara by water. We 



