CALIFORNIA. 227 



these favourable impressions, and showed its uncouth proportions, 

 as well as the neglect in which the whole was kept. The way to the 

 house, which stands on a knoll, leads through miry places, and over 

 broken-down fences, winding around dilapidated ox-carts, over troughs, 

 old baskets, dead hogs, dogs, and fowls, all huddled together. Rude 

 articles of husbandry occupied the sides of the building. Seeing no 

 one, we dismounted, tied our horses, and began to search for in- 

 habitants. All the houses were unfinished ; to the doors of some 

 there were no steps, and no floors to the rooms of others ; the adobes 

 were bare, and destitute of plaster or whitewash ; and what was more 

 disheartening, no inhabitants made their appearance. At last a slave 

 was seen crawling from a wretched hole, whom we followed to the 

 only place which yet remained unsearched, a distant corner of the 

 premises, where we found the family, consisting of a mother and 

 daughter. The latter was a nice-looking girl, to whom our note 

 was handed, and who read it aloud to her mother, who did not 

 recognise the name of Don Miguel. Whether this arose from design 

 or ignorance, I know not ; but the note produced no apparent effect : 

 however, after a few compliments, and a little persuasion, through 

 our servant, (who spoke Spanish well,) the mother was somewhat 

 softened, and we procured a tumbler of milk, and a tortilla. But we 

 could not induce her to allow us to take from the fifty horses that 

 were then in the coural, the few we required. Her constant answer 

 was, that her husband was not at home, and she could not do it. 

 We strayed about the kitchen, which was the only apartment fit 

 for occupation, and warmed ourselves over the small fire that had 

 been lighted, for the air was becoming chilly and damp. This apart- 

 ment was lighted from the door and a small window; it was furnished 

 with numerous stew-holes and ovens, which appeared very convenient 

 for cooking ; and above them were placed shelves, on which the pans 

 of milk were resting. In the centre was a large mortar, and beyond 

 it, at the far end, quite in the dark, the rude grist-mill of the country. 

 To the long shaft of the mill a small donkey was harnessed. This 

 place apparently, answered also as a stable. The whole had quite a 

 primitive look, and showed, at least, some comfort and forethought. 

 During our examinations, in came the husband, very unexpectedly to 

 his wife and daughter, as well as to ourselves. He had the face of 

 a ruffian. After many suspicious looks and questions, he gave his 

 consent, though very unwillingly, to supply us with horses. Lest it 

 should be supposed that this man was the owner of the estancia, I 



