SOUTHERN OREGON. 239 



pools to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and the thermometer 

 had fallen to 26°. The soil on the Elk Mountains is hard and dry ; 

 on the ridge, rock is nowhere exposed to view, and only a few frag- 

 ments of sandstone lie on the surface ; where they made their descent, 

 however, and in the banks of the streamlets, they saw the rock finely 

 developed in horizontal layers. The soil also was more sandy and of 

 indifferent quality, and the grass in consequence is thin and occa- 

 sionallv mixed with ferns. 



On the 16th, they encamped on the Elk river. The hunters were 

 successful in killing a large elk, which was brought into camp and 

 divided. Lieutenant Emmons, Mr. Agate, and Sergeant Stearns, 

 with a Canadian as guide, left the encampment for Fort Umpqua, 

 which was fourteen miles distant. The country for the first five 

 miles was hilly, with scattered patches of pines, and it appears in 

 places to be suitable for cultivation ; the rest of the distance was over 

 a country much broken. The trail carried them over a succession of 

 steep hills and through deep ravines, which at times appeared almost 

 impassable to their broken-down beasts; four of which Lieutenant 

 Emmons was taking with him to exchange. They did not reach the 

 bank of the river opposite the fort, until between eight and nine o'clock. 

 On the opposite side they perceived a fire, with some figures passing 

 to and fro. By firing guns, and employing the stentorian voice of their 

 guide, it was made known that our party was in want of two canoes 

 to cross the river. The person in charge of the fort, Mr. Gangriere, 

 had suffered much alarm, until he recognised the voice of Boileau, 

 their guide, which had served to quiet him, and he at once directed 

 the canoes to cross over; while these were sought for, the horses were 

 hobbled, and the accoutrements made up, ready for transportation. 

 Fort Umpqua was, like all those built in this country, enclosed by a 

 tall line of pickets, with bastions at diagonal corners ; it is about two 

 hundred feet square, and is situated more than one hundred and fifty 

 yards from the river, upon an extensive plain ; it is garrisoned by five 

 men, two women, and nine dogs, and contains a dwelling for the 

 superintendent, as well as store-houses, and some smaller buildings 

 for the officers and servants' apartments. 



At the time of the visit, an unusual number of Indians of the 

 Umpqua tribe had collected around ; and Mr. Gangriere said, had 

 shown a strong disposition to attack and burn the fort. He stated 

 that hostility to the Company and the whites generally, arose from 



