318 MANILLA. 



playing. This is by far the best opportunity that one can have for 

 viewing the society of Manilla, which seems as easy and unrestrained 

 as the peculiar gravity and ceremonious mode of intercourse among 

 the old Spaniards can admit. Before the present governor took office, 

 it had been the custom to allow the bands to play on the Prado every 

 fine evening, when all the inhabitants could enjoy it until a late hour; 

 but he has interdicted this practice, and of course given much dis- 

 satisfaction ; he is said to have done this in a fit of ill temper, and 

 although importuned to restore this amusement to the common people, 

 he pertinaciously refuses. 



The bands of the regiments are under the direction of Frenchmen 

 and Spaniards : the musicians are all natives, and play with a correct 

 ear. 



Our afternoons were spent in drives on the Prado, where all the 

 fashion and rank of Manilla are to be met, and where it is exceedingly 

 agreeable to partake of the fresh and pure air after a heated day in 

 the city. The extreme end of the Prado lies along the shore of the 

 bay of Manilla, having the roadstead and ships on one side, and the 

 city proper with its fortifications and moats on the other. This drive 

 usually lasts for an hour, and all sorts of vehicles are shown off, 

 from the governor's coach and six, surrounded by his lancers, to the 

 sorry chaise and limping nag. The carriage most used is a four- 

 wheeled biloche, with a gig top, quite low, and drawn by two horses, 

 on one of which is a postilion ; these vehicles are exceedingly com- 

 fortable for two persons. The horses are small, but spirited, and are 

 said to be able to undergo great fatigue, although their appearance 

 does not promise it. This drive is enlivened by the music of the 

 different regiments, who are at this time to be seen manoeuvring on 

 the Prado. The soldiers have a very neat and clean appearance; 

 great attention is paid to them, and the whole are well appointed. 

 The force stationed in Manilla is six thousand, and the army in 

 the Philippines amounts to twenty thousand men. The officers are 

 all Spaniards, generally the relations and friends of those in the 

 administration of the government. The pay of the soldiers is four 

 dollars a month, and a ration, which is equal to six cents a day. As 

 troops, I was told they acquitted themselves well. The Prado is laid 

 out in many avenues, leading in various directions to the suburbs, 

 and these are planted with wild almond trees, which afford a pleasant 

 shade. It is well kept, and creditable to the city. 



