MANILLA. 333 



once ordered horses for them to proceed to the mission of Magjaijai, 

 and entertained them with a sumptuous breakfast. 



They were not prepared to set out before noon, until which time 

 they strolled about the town of Santa Cruz, the inhabitants of which 

 are Tagalas. There are only two old Spaniards in the place. The 

 province in which Santa Cruz is situated, contains about five thou- 

 sand inhabitants, of whom eighteen hundred pay tribute. 



The people have the character of being orderly, and govern them- 

 selves without the aid of the military. The principal article of 

 culture is the cocoa-nut tree, which is seen in large groves. The 

 trunks of these were notched, as was supposed, for the purpose of 

 climbing them. From the spathe a kind of spirit is manufactured, 

 which is fully as strong as our whiskey. 



About noon they left Don Escudero's, and took a road leading 

 to the southward and eastward, through a luxuriant and beautiful 

 country, well cultivated, and ornamented with lofty cocoa-nut trees, 

 betel palms, and banana groves. Several beautiful valleys were 

 passed, with streamlets rushing through them. 



Magjaijai is situated about one thousand feet above the Laguna de 

 Bay, but the rise is so gradual that it was almost imperceptible. 

 The country has every where the appearance of being densely 

 peopled ; but no more than one village was passed between Santa 

 Cruz and the mission. They had letters to F. Antonio Ftomana y 

 Aranda, padre of the mission, who received them kindly, and enter- 

 tained them most hospitably. When he was told of their intention 

 to visit the mountain, he said it was impossible with such weather, 

 pointing to the black clouds that then enveloped its summit; and he 

 endeavoured to persuade the gentlemen to desist from what appeared 

 to him a mad attempt; but finding them resolved to make the trial, 

 he aided in making all the necessary preparations, though he had 

 no belief in their success. 



On the morning of the 17th, after mass, Mr. Eld and Dr. Pickering 

 set out, but Mr. Sturges preferred to keep the good padre company 

 until their return. The padre had provided them with guides, 

 horses, twenty natives, and provisions for three days. He had been 

 himself on the same laborious journey, some six months before, and 

 knew its fatigues ; although it turned out afterwards that his expe- 

 dition was performed in fine weather, and that he had been borne on 

 a litter by natives the whole way. 



The first part of the road was wet and miry, and discouraging 



vol. v. 84 



