558 The Fabrication of Aino Cloth. [ August, 
Thus is accomplished the crossing which, later, serves to 
separate the woof threads. The proper number of threads 
obtained, they are tied at variouy intervals, a strip of bark is 
passed each side of the cross at a—shown more distinctly at 
a’, Fig. 5’—to keep the threads from uncrossing, and the loop at 
2, shown in Fig. 2’, is well wound to keep the threads of each 
series distinct. The pegs are then drawn, and the operator has a 
single bundle of threads with a loop at each end. The loop of 
‘each thread at 5 is then passed through the osha, so that the lat- 
ter will be between the crossing a’ and the longer portion of the 
threads. The yddosini is next passed through the loop 5, and 
serves to keep the threads in position, as well as a straining stick 
by which the warp may be kept at proper tension. At a distance 
of four or five feet from the dosha, the adate is secured to the 
threads and passed through a looped string fastened to some firm 
object. By means ofa'string passing around the body, and secured 
to each end of the yodosini, the operator, who sits upon the floor, 
can easily regulate the tension of the threads by bringing 
all strain upon the adate. The gamasa is placed. within a 
few inches of the osha, but between it and the cross of the 
threads; its only use is to properly separate the upper 
and TERA series of threads, to permit the action of the 
ahonishi. The bekofune occupies a position near the gamasa, 
about one-half way between it and the yddosini. Small 
twine is then passed over it and looped under each warp 
thread of the lower series, thus forming a simple means 
of bringing either series of threads to the top, and varying 
the cross of the warp to correspond with the movement of the 
ahonishi. The position of parts will be ayy understood from 
an inspection of Plate 111. 
The size of the cloth is quite variable, since the Ainds seidom 
count and have no means o: accurate measurement. Thus if in 
stretching the warp threads the operator obtains more than 
enough to fill the loom, the extra ones are dropped out and the 
cloth will have a maximum width of 13.5 inches. If, however, 
not enough threads were taken to fill the loom, no more are 
added. The usual length of the cloth is six and a-half times the 
EXPLANATION OF PLATE 111.—r. Gamasa. 2. Osha. 3. Bekofune. 4- 
Yodosini. §. Adate. 6, Position of operator. a’ Cross of threads = @” 
late 1. A. Pattern for front skirt of coat. B. Pattern for collar, C. Pattern 
