560 The Fabrication of Aino Cloth. [ August, 
length of the expanded arms, and as this latter will average five 
feet, we find the total length of cloth approximating thirty-two 
feet in round numbers. 
After the thread has been prepared, such a piece of cloth can 
be made in from three to four days, according to the skill of the 
operator, who is always a woman. 
The color of the finished fabric is das that of the bark from 
which it is made, though uniformity is rare, owing to dis- 
coloration of the threads during preparation. If. made from 
Ohiyo, the color is usually brown, with slight inclination to red, 
while that made from the Akadamo is invariably of a bright tan 
color. 
As an article of clothing, for which use alone it appears to be 
utilized, the Aino cloth has several good qualities. It is very 
coarse in texture, as would be expected from the nature of the 
material, but it possesses great strength and wears out slowly; 
while its meshes are so close, and the threads so compact, that it 
is completely proof against ordinary rains, on which account the 
Japanese make great use of it for rain coats. 
The Ainos make yet another kind of cloth out of fiber obtained 
from a species of Urtica. This, however, is only made in sma 
quantities, since its use is restricted to burial purposes 
The garments are made in the most simple manner, the breaths 
being cut without any bias. Nearly all are ornamented with 
some simple figure, either blue or white, though red and green 
are not unfrequently used, Plate 11 will show some of the most 
characteristic patterns, which were copicd from the dress of a 
chief’s wife, and are very good representations of the more elab- 
orate forms. 
In addition to the buskins the only garment worn is a coat 
reaching somewhat below the knees, and fastened at the waist by 
a girdle. Upon this one garment the women often lavish all 
their skill in decorating, and thus the coats of chiefs—more 
especially their wives and children—not unfrequently make a 
great display of gaudy trimming. The ornamentation, however, 
often lacks greatly in symmetry, as can be seen by the figures. 
