BAPTISM OF THE LINE. 3 



towns, mountains with snowy peaks, lakes, and the like, as in 

 a kaleidoscope. It is so magnificent that it must be seen to 

 be believed. Some travellers say that the sun-rises are still 

 more wonderful to look at, but for myself I can hardly see any 

 difïerence between the beauties of both. We were enthusi- 

 astically admiring the conclusion of this grand sight, when 

 we were disagreeably surprised by receiving on our heads 

 showers of water, poured over by some sailors concealed 

 among the yards, on the top of the masts. There was a 

 momentary panic among the passengers, but it was soon ex- 

 plained to us that these showers of water was poured over 

 by the assistants of Neptune, KiNG OF THE Sea, to greet us 

 with the welcome knowledge that the next day we were ex- 

 pecting to pass the Line, the domain of his Majesty the King, 

 who forbade travellers to pass that part of his realm without 

 being first baptised. I think that this ancient custom, so dear 

 and producive to sailors, is dispensed with now. This baptism 

 is administered only once ; so the old hands, who knew all 

 about it, had taken care not to be on deck with the other 

 passengers. 



On the loth of March, between lo and 5 p.m., the sailors 

 do nearly as much as they like. Knowing what is coming on, 

 the passengers dress as scantily as possible. At 10 o'clock sharp 

 the fun began by throwing water, flour, rotten eggs, and 

 other missiles on the passengers and officers, who, including 

 the captain, take part in the fun. Then a carnavalesque pro- 

 cession, headed by Neptune, strident in hand, and followed 

 by Lucifer, policemen, verger, assistant carrying a basin of 

 water, Father and Mother Line and follow^ers, all of them in 

 more or less eccentric costumes, made its appearance on deck 

 and took position. A letter was then delivered to the captain 

 by Neptune's secretary, with the injunction to read it to the 

 passengers, w^hich was forthwith done. In this letter King 

 Neptune offers his felicitations to the captain for the safe 

 arrival of the ship in this part of his domain, and requests him 

 to deliver all the passengers and sailors who have not passed 

 the Line before, reminding him that those who should try to 

 pass without receiving the usual baptism would be condemned 

 to be thrown overboard at once as food for the sharks. Of 

 course, no one being willing to undergo that fate, all con- 

 sented to be delivered into King Neptune's hands and receive 

 the usual baptism. Then one by one was conducted to a 

 mock chapel, erected on empty barrels, where those of wild 

 tempers are rather badly treated, first by being shaved with a 



