AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



HOW TO USE BROMIDE PAPER. 



Rochester, N. Y. 



Editor Recreation: Mr. P. F. Shea, 

 Chicopee Falls, Mass., requests some ama- 

 teur photographer to inform him, through 

 Recreation, how to use Eastman's bro- 

 mide paper. He does not state whether he 

 wants to use it for contact printing or for 

 enlarging purposes. However, I have had 

 some experience in both, and take pleasure 

 in stating my modus operandi. The Hy- 

 drochinon developer suits me as well as 

 any, for either negatives or bromide prints. 

 The powder form, as supplied by Eastman, 

 is convenient to use and keeps a long time. 



Of course, bromide paper is entirely dif- 

 ferent from printing out papers, on account 

 of its being so much more sensitive, which 

 necessitates special care to prevent being 

 fogged by light, and on account of the 

 image not showing until developed. For 

 these reasons the paper is treated more like 

 a negative. Bromide has one great advan- 

 tage over printing out papers, in that it can 

 be manipulated at night. Flashlight ex- 

 posures can be made, the negatives devel- 

 oped, and bromide prints made, in one 

 evening. 



For contact work, from either film or 

 glass negatives, I use an ordinary printing 

 frame, for exposing, and with the average 

 negative allow say 15 seconds exposure, to 

 the light of a good oil burner, about one 

 foot distant. If daylight was used for ex- 

 posing, probably 1-10 of this time would 

 be sufficient. The Eastman enamelled pa- 

 per comes in 2 grades — hard and soft. The 

 latter seems the better for artificial light. 

 Of course, with bromide paper the tone is 

 obtained entirely in developing; so that 

 when the print is dark enough you throw 

 out the solution; then rinse once or twice, 

 and immerse in the fixing bath. 



In enlarging I use a No. 5 Folding 

 Kodak. The window in the dark room has 

 a slide in the centre, which lifts up with a 

 cord, and the opening is covered with a 

 ground glass frame having a groove in the 

 front into which the negative carrier slides. 

 The kodak is placed on a shelf, just in front 

 of the negative carrier, with the back to- 

 ward the negative, and the focussing glass 

 removed. The back of the camera is 

 dropped down and the case connected with 

 the negative frame by black cloth, to keep 

 the light from entering the room excepting 

 through the lens, in which way it reaches 

 the exposing table, standing in front. This 

 table is simply a large box, in a vertical 

 position, with the side next to the camera 

 covered with white paper. The image is 

 focussed sharply, by means of the focussing 

 lever, after which the shutter is closed, the 



sensitive paper put in position by pinning 

 at the corners, and the exposure made. 

 Of course, the desired size of the print has 

 previously been secured by moving the box 

 back and forth. 



The most difficult part about enlarging is 

 to secure the correct length of exposure. 

 This can easily be ascertained by making 

 some trial exposures. Tack a small piece 

 of paper on the exposing table and try it, 

 for say one minute. On developing you 

 can easily tell whether it is over or under 

 timed. If the latter, the development will 

 be slow and the print will be faint. If over 

 timed, it will develop quickly. It should 

 develop about the same as a negative. 

 This applies also to contactprints. 



One great advantage in making prints by 

 enlarging is that you can vignette out any 

 part of the negative so as to give the bal- 

 ance more exposure. This can be done by 

 the hand or with a piece of cardboard, cut 

 in a suitable shape. Of course, a small 

 stop in the lens will give sharper prints 

 than a full aperture. Any kind of a camera 

 can be fitted up for enlarging purposes. 

 Daylight is best, as condensers, which are 

 quite expensive, are not required. 



W. W. Day. 



MAKE THEM LOOK THE OTHER WAY. 



I must once more call the attention of 

 amateurs to the great mistake many of them 

 make, of allowing their subjects to gaze at 

 the camera. I receive photos nearly every 

 day that are unfit for publication, on this 

 account, and that otherwise contain much 

 good material. 



Now comes one showing a team, stalled 

 and apparently broken down, in the woods; 

 but the 4 hunters and the driver, instead of 

 making any effort to repair the damage, or 

 to get the team out, are sitting quietly in the 

 wagon and staring at the camera in order to 

 have their pictures taken, and in order that 

 their friends may all know them when they 

 see the picture. It would seem that practi- 

 cal men would have been employed in try- 

 ing to get out of the difficulty. Even if they 

 had only made believe they were busy, and 

 if the plate had been exposed on them at 

 such a time, the picture would have been 

 full of interest; but as it is, it merely shows 

 that the condition of affairs was brought 

 about simply for the purpose of having the 

 picture taken. It is therefore entirely 

 worthless. 



All amateurs should study the pictures 

 shown on the cover, and on the lower half 

 of page 411, and the lower half of page 430, 

 of June Recreation, and on pages 5, 6, 7, 

 and 16 of July Recreation. Here are ideal 

 photographs. The situations are worked 



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